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Used Porsche and Prestige Cars For Sale | Harbour Cars

Using a STOMSKI exhaust jig

Thank you!

I've seen them at machine mart and they can be used with an impact gun which will provide a extra shocking!

So the big question - what type of fixing are you replacing them with? Bolts or studs / nuts, mild steel, stainless or titanium?

Ian
 
They don't always snap leaving something proud of the surface to weld to. Also, as awful as it was lieing on my back in the rain doing this, it would have been even more unpleasant trying to weld in that situation.

As for what to use instead of Porsche's pig-iron bolts, I used stainless studs and an aircraft type of stainless pinch-nut. Anything that's corrosion resistant will probably be fine. A lot of people use Ti studs but they were four times the cost of stainless when I looked.
 
Wish me luck...
 

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Paynewright said:
Wish me luck...
Click to expand...

Have you tried loosening any of the bolts?

I managed to remove all 12 of my bolts. My engine has had a rebuild and have obviously been fixed at some point but the bolt heads looked bad so I assumed the worst.

Good luck
 
They don't look too terrible. Best of luck.

MC
 
I have to admit to suffering frustration with Porsche "engineering" re the issues with these exhaust fixings.. :don't know:

I have over many years used heat to remove corroded fixings with a good measure of success, gave my kit back to BOC some time back when I hung up my tools.

I wondered if induction heating might be worth a try for this task.. :?:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ya8fxm89jk
 
Thanks for taking the time to provide a heads-up on ED China`s work with an induction heater Mac68 :thumb:
 
This is a really useful thread, thank you for taking the time to share your experience.
 
The question - how hard is it lying on your back...?

We did all of ours (all 12 either broke, stuck, rounded, etc, none came out clean) and so we had to mount the jig on the handful that broke off with enough length to fit it....

It was long and a bit tiring, but not all that bad, you just need to be methodical, have good technique and discipline with the drill, the taps, take your time, etc.

The one thing I would implore though is get really good drills. We had to buy carbide tipped, and there's one bolt in particular (I think left bank, near the back from memory) which is right next to a protrusion in the casting of the head or block (we did remember to remove the water pipe housing) and so had to buy a 12" long carbide drill bit (hard to find!) because the chuck of the drill was blocking the drill with a usual 4" bit.

We did it in the spring though, wouldn't fancy Winter....:)

Ad
 
Paynewright said:
Wish me luck...
Click to expand...

I'm about to tackle the same job in a couple of weeks. So, 'Good Luck'!

As Mac68 said above, he managed to get all of his out without too much trouble, the engine rebuild may have played a significant advantage. Anyways worth soaking with plus gas or similar beforehand. As mentioned previously an impact gun set on a low setting to 'agitate' the bolts without shearing them immediately, more penetrating fluid and some heat may help.

If mine start shearing, I'm going to grind some of the heads off then remove the manifolds so at least I have some exposed threads left to get a Stomski jig on. Do you have access to a jig in worse case? I'm yet to get one but when the time comes I might be asking a favour via the forum. :thumbs:
 
Day 1 on the right side bank which looked like blobs of rust. Some I managed to hammer a 9mm socket onto. 3 came out, 1 snapped and 2 had to have the bolt heads drilled off. I've used the Stomski to drill one out completely but have retired for the evening and now on the beer!

Findings / tips thus far

- depth of head drilling (to mounting face) 22.5mm

- If you leave the shim gasket in place it protects the head mounting face as you power file the studs as low as possible (less drilling)

- artery forceps are good at grabbing remaining threads and unwinding them
 

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If you can't get a socket on, I would consider cutting the heads off and usings a stud extractor. I had a 50% success rate doing that, much faster than drilling.

MC
 
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