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Rattle can finish advice please

Robertb

Well-known member
Joined
1 Sep 2003
Messages
8,406
So, I'm trying to refurbish the alu/leather gearshifter on my 996.

I bought a rattle can of the alu look paint, matched visually by a paint shop which is an absolutely perfect match.

I've done three coats, and the finish is good, but a little orange peely.

I also have a little paint run, if I'm being a fusspot but not bad for a first attempt.

Any thoughts on what to do to improve it... sand it?

Should I finish with some satin lacquer?
 
If you have a run in the paint, then yes sand it back and then give it another coat of paint until you are happy with the finish, then give it a coat of laquer :thumb:

Personally I would have polished the aluminium and then given it a coat of laquer :grin:
 
I'm no paint person and only know from past experience painting things but the orange peel sounds like a reaction of the paint, possibly with a base layer?

As for runs, sounds like you may be spraying too close or building the layer up too thickly.
 
Thanks fellas, I'll trot back to the paint shop tomorrow and buy some lacquer, see if they have any tips too.

Actually it has settled down as it's dried and the run has largely disappeared.

I did wonder about polishing the alu (bizzarre that Porsche did not do a proper brushed metal surface instead of the paint) but it wouldn't match the other alu bits that are part of the small alu pack. Mr OE, me...
 
One top tip for getting the paint to harden off quickly this time of year, borrow her indoors hairdryer and warm up the part before you spray it :thumb:
 
The original finish is anodised and I would agree with Kris that polishing would be the best long term solution.
 
kurlykris said:
One top tip for getting the paint to harden off quickly this time of year, borrow her indoors hairdryer and warm up the part before you spray it :thumb:

Was just gonna say the exact same - warm both the rattle can and the job up first. Then when applying, can in one hand, hairdryer on lowest fan / highest heat setting in the other.
 
Ah, I did wonder if the cold temps probably weren't helping... great tip, thanks.

I'm guessing this will apply to the lacquer process as well.
 
Alex said:
kurlykris said:
One top tip for getting the paint to harden off quickly this time of year, borrow her indoors hairdryer and warm up the part before you spray it :thumb:

Was just gonna say the exact same - warm both the rattle can and the job up first. Then when applying, can in one hand, hairdryer on lowest fan / highest heat setting in the other.


This ^^^^

Warming the can will thin the paint, help it get out of the can better as it will be lower viscosity. This will make it lay down better. The basecoat is only giving it the colour, the clearcoat gives it a more durable finish. dust the basecoat on the get the desired finish then clearcoat it to get the gloss/satin finish.
 
Definitely an art to this, it's been interesting learning something new.

Just got back from the paint shop... the fella said I was being hard on myself, it was a good finish! Anyway, got some 2500 grit paper and satin lacquer for stage 2...
 
Just thought of something else that hasnt been mentioned. spray one direction and then another, as in side to side motion. But do it in short bursts as opposed to spraying the whole time.
 
Thanks... I did end up doing that, also got the hang of starting the spray off the side to get the flow going before moving across. Less was definitely more...

I also found that shaking the can beforehand for ages is very important.

Sanded back, did two more light paint coats having left the spray cans on the radiator for a while, then warmed the surface prior to painting.

Lacquer went on easily, two light coats then a heavier one.

Got a very good finish in the end. The top is a little bit textured if I'm being picky, but a massive improvement over how it was, and the front face is excellent.

Thanks all for the tips, really helpful and I'm pleased with the results. Will try to post up pics, maybe a how-to...
 

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