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Problem with Alpine ILX700

A word of caution, we absolutely could not find anywhere to put a Focal iBus 20 other than hanging it under the dash on the passenger side, no room under the seat, no room behind the seat (unless you are happy with it just sitting there).

I wanted it attached to the structure of the car, and have since done a day at Bruntingthorpe with the car seeing sustained lateral load of 1G, and it's not moved at all - so I'd call that success.
 
In my experience across a number of brands, the Bose stuff cannot be made to co-operate in a satisfactory way, even with a lot of money biffed at interfaces boxes, so I now rip and replace...
 
Dammit said:
A word of caution, we absolutely could not find anywhere to put a Focal iBus 20 other than hanging it under the dash on the passenger side, no room under the seat, no room behind the seat (unless you are happy with it just sitting there).

I wanted it attached to the structure of the car, and have since done a day at Bruntingthorpe with the car seeing sustained lateral load of 1G, and it's not moved at all - so I'd call that success.
Click to expand...

right, so yours is underneath the glovebox? I may take the Bose box out and fit it in there or may be just fiddle around with it and get it working better, though I'm wary of spending too much time for little gain.
 
yo_clarkie said:
In my experience across a number of brands, the Bose stuff cannot be made to co-operate in a satisfactory way, even with a lot of money biffed at interfaces boxes, so I now rip and replace...
Click to expand...

I've actually got most of the bits to be able to replace it removed from a previous car I had. I'd like to be able to retain and reuse the existing wiring, preferably without cutting anything, at worst do it in such a way so that I can reverse it easily.

Also this started as I was fed up with the OE PCM2 not having bluetooth and very poor sound quality. I'm trying to avoid doing a full install, taking the seats out, putting down sound absorbing sheets etc
 
The only additional working we ran was from the battery to the amp, we connected to the stock loom with the same connectors that Porsche used so it's all reversible by simply unplugging it.
 
Right, an update. I've received the ISO connector and proceeded to connect the preout RCA leads to it.

Now I have the preout connected to the Bose amp. Results? Well it works, I have much better control over the volume now.

BUT there are artefacts galore, all sorts of noises and hiss. This seems to be superimposed on the music. I can hear it even with the HU set to zero.

The noise is rhythmic, sounds like low-level oscillation, perhaps from ground loops? I could decouple the HU and amp, but it's a ball ache.

I'm loosing patience with this. What have other people done? Replace the amp?


An aside, the Bose dash speakers in mine seem to be different from what I've seen other people remove, the ones in my car have a metal spider. The replacements I've ordered, Alpine SPG 10C2 has a plastic spider.

 
yo_clarkie said:
In my experience across a number of brands, the Bose stuff cannot be made to co-operate in a satisfactory way, even with a lot of money biffed at interfaces boxes, so I now rip and replace...
Click to expand...

I'm arriving at the same conclusion. I'd rather not run new wires if I can help it. Does the existing wiring lend itself to reuse? Preferably without chopping it up.
 
Mine wasn't/isn't Bose, but it was the "hi-fi" option, which meant six speakers, six channel amp and the CD multi-changer.

We replaced the lot, and added a sub, the only additional wiring was to power the new amp directly from the battery and a short run from the head unit to the sub.

I don't see why you'd not re-use the existing wiring unless you were going for a very high-nerd install and wanted inch thick pure gold cables everywhere.

There are wiring diagrams available for these cars, get the one that is specific to your model and options and work out what needs to go where, what you want to install and then take a look at what connectors you need to source.

It's not a snap-fingers-and-done project, but it's also not massive.

I quite enjoyed soldering up all my new connectors, I'd not done anything remotely similar for 25 years so it was fun remembering how to do it.
 
uk996 said:
yo_clarkie said:
In my experience across a number of brands, the Bose stuff cannot be made to co-operate in a satisfactory way, even with a lot of money biffed at interfaces boxes, so I now rip and replace...
Click to expand...

I'm arriving at the same conclusion. I'd rather not run new wires if I can help it. Does the existing wiring lend itself to reuse? Preferably without chopping it up.
Click to expand...

I'll do my best to describe what I have done, and its honestly less than 90 mins to do this.

I added 2.5m of speaker wire to the head unit wiring loom, wrapped them in tesa tape (optional) and cut a small hole to pass them through in the rubber bung behind the battery in the fire wall, came around the battery and in through one of the two rubber bungs into the frunk area. I applied some black silicon to these bungs to reseal, and as i used tesa tape, its impossible for the untrained eye to tell it apart from any other factory wiring. At the point where the amp was, I bought a connector as part of a kit (pic above) and soldered the speaker wires from the amp to the back of the connector and plugged into the speaker loom, wired as picture above.

In my case I had the optical Bose, so not any wire i could reuse, you might be more lucky.

Since I have the Bose sub, I rewired it to be be ___\^/____\^/___ instead of in parallel to give it some impedance and have a small Kenwood amp where the CD changer used to be to drive it. So my speaker loom from the front includes a pair of RCA cables from the Sub out (and a second and third set i could use later if i wanted to but don't).

I read all your comments about wanting to keep it factory and simple, I had the same initial approach, and can only say "*****" as to the time you have sent on this.

If your speakers have a metal spider on them, then it's likely they are SoundStream, not too shabby and comparable to the Alpine, so prob leave them there.
 
Dammit said:
We replaced the lot, and added a sub, the only additional wiring was to power the new amp directly from the battery and a short run from the head unit to the sub.

I don't see why you'd not re-use the existing wiring unless you were going for a very high-nerd install and wanted inch thick pure gold cables everywhere.

There are wiring diagrams available for these cars, get the one that is specific to your model and options and work out what needs to go where, what you want to install and then take a look at what connectors you need to source.

It's not a snap-fingers-and-done project, but it's also not massive.

I quite enjoyed soldering up all my new connectors, I'd not done anything remotely similar for 25 years so it was fun remembering how to do it.
Click to expand...

No problems with soldering, although I need to use a microscope for SMD work, as I simply can't see the parts properly these days, but through hole and connectors are not a problem.

I'm fed up with the time I spent on the crappy Bose stuff. Can't believe it's so bad for premium system.

Clarkie
Click to expand...
Dash speakers - that explains why the Alpine doesn't sound any better, in fact it's a little quieter, I guess it has a higher sensitivity or the impedance of the Alpines are higher. Luckily I didn't butcher them. I'll put the Alpines in the back and reinstate the front dash speakers.

Tesa tape is that black cloth tape for NVH purposes?

So, you kept the Bose sub? I find it lacks control and single note. I was thinking about getting rid of it and fitting one of those under seat subs, but above the passenger's feet area. Is the thing ported? I prefer sealed boxes or open baffle for subs. Did you change the speakers in the sub or just re-wire them?

My HU has F, R and sub preouts and I've got a decent, spare amp, though it's a little big. I'll need to find it and see if it'll physically fit or I'll just buy a couple of those Pioneer amps.

I should have enough screened 4 core cable kicking around to make the lead. The existing leads aren't shielded, but do seem to be twisted pairs.

Photo shows the lead I made, preout to Bose amp.

 
Tesa Tape

https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Fleece-...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Cloth on one side, sticky on the other, used to loom all euro cars wiring. Yup, any tape will do.

Sub:

As standard wired its 1 ohm and won't work properly with any known amp. Rewire helped a lot, but its also inefficient and so had tp turn gain up a lot. I plan to continue to improve it by removing the speakers and blocking the ports and using it as a bling enclosure for two 10" subs I'll install in the top of it facing up :)

Have a bracket to make and a couple of coffin arms to replace before then though...
 
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