Pull all the exhaust nuts and bolts and replace with titanium.
darkhorse Monza
Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Posts: 179 Location: under the car
Posted: Sat May 11, 2019 11:19 pm Post subject:
Mezgerite wrote:
Pull all the exhaust nuts and bolts and replace with titanium.
Already done with stainless steel. Will swap them
For titanium when its off if thats a better option, cheers
Scholester Suzuka
Joined: 16 Jan 2012 Posts: 1121 Location: South West
Posted: Sun May 12, 2019 7:10 am Post subject:
darkhorse wrote:
Update on this. Can't get the water pipes off the turbos in the car, so going to remove the engine and box at some point in the next week or two and remove all pipes with it out, and replace the ones that need it (if I cant still get them off the turbos).
Bit of a pain to be honest but gives me a chance to attend to anything else while the engine is out and of course get my first tick on the scoreboard of 997t engine removal/refit. If it would be of use to others I can take some pictures and do a thread on the job, seeing as there is very little on mezger engine removal that I can find online.
Anything else crucial that I should replace while the engine is out?
Im going to go through it all closely. Potentially will pin the coolant pipes depending on if they look new or not as the car has had plenty replaced over the years from looking at it.
I was thinking about replacing the exhaust manifold bolts while its out, but I have read about the nightmare these can be and the manifolds are not leaking at all. Will see how that goes. Some of the bolts heads are corroded quite heavily. I read somewhere that 997t bolts come out better than 996 studs. I cant see that being the case though it doesnt sit well with me not doing them while the engine is in front of me..!
Cheers
A thread would be great on engine removal.
I replaced my manifold bolts with titanium, and luckily for me, the old bolts wound straight out. It probably helped that I had sprayed them daily for a couple of weeks prior to tackling. TheFinn had issues on his Carrera and ended up buying a Stomski jig to drill out a few sheared bolts. It may be that the Mezger unit bolts wind out easier generally? _________________ 997.1 Turbo Coupe, manual, black/black. 29k miles under its belt.
Scholester Suzuka
Joined: 16 Jan 2012 Posts: 1121 Location: South West
Posted: Sun May 12, 2019 7:10 am Post subject:
Duplicate post. _________________ 997.1 Turbo Coupe, manual, black/black. 29k miles under its belt.
ragpicker Reims
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4031 Location: North East England
Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Posts: 179 Location: under the car
Posted: Mon May 13, 2019 3:41 pm Post subject:
Scholester wrote:
darkhorse wrote:
Update on this. Can't get the water pipes off the turbos in the car, so going to remove the engine and box at some point in the next week or two and remove all pipes with it out, and replace the ones that need it (if I cant still get them off the turbos).
Bit of a pain to be honest but gives me a chance to attend to anything else while the engine is out and of course get my first tick on the scoreboard of 997t engine removal/refit. If it would be of use to others I can take some pictures and do a thread on the job, seeing as there is very little on mezger engine removal that I can find online.
Anything else crucial that I should replace while the engine is out?
Im going to go through it all closely. Potentially will pin the coolant pipes depending on if they look new or not as the car has had plenty replaced over the years from looking at it.
I was thinking about replacing the exhaust manifold bolts while its out, but I have read about the nightmare these can be and the manifolds are not leaking at all. Will see how that goes. Some of the bolts heads are corroded quite heavily. I read somewhere that 997t bolts come out better than 996 studs. I cant see that being the case though it doesnt sit well with me not doing them while the engine is in front of me..!
Cheers
A thread would be great on engine removal.
I replaced my manifold bolts with titanium, and luckily for me, the old bolts wound straight out. It probably helped that I had sprayed them daily for a couple of weeks prior to tackling. TheFinn had issues on his Carrera and ended up buying a Stomski jig to drill out a few sheared bolts. It may be that the Mezger unit bolts wind out easier generally?
ok will post up a thread when I do it!
Hopefully the Mezger bolts are a little better but I think it depends on the level of corrosion? It's not a job I am relishing to be honest. Unless its on a lift I cant get a specialist to come out and drill them, and I dont have a Stromski jig; I would think they are different for the turbo being a 3 bolt per header pipe design?
ragpicker wrote:
Remove, reglue and pin all bonded coolant pipes.
Anyone know how easily they seperate if they are still in good order? What sort of glue is used guys, some sort of loctite?
I am tempted to use the metal ones from America but I may do that at a later date; just want to get back on the road first so will redo OEM ones if needed.
Ishay Monza
Joined: 28 Aug 2015 Posts: 239
Posted: Mon May 13, 2019 10:26 pm Post subject:
Has supply of the VVT turbos become easier again? A year ago they were on back order and mine was bought from Greece!
The other turbo is going to need doing eventually, although it hasn’t seen rain since. I think one of the indies was selling refurbished ones but I can’t recall who _________________ Current: 997.1 Turbo, Coupe, Manual
Current: BMW X1 2.0d
Previous: 997.2, Coupe PDK
darkhorse Monza
Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Posts: 179 Location: under the car
Posted: Tue May 14, 2019 8:40 am Post subject:
Ishay wrote:
Has supply of the VVT turbos become easier again? A year ago they were on back order and mine was bought from Greece!
The other turbo is going to need doing eventually, although it hasn’t seen rain since. I think one of the indies was selling refurbished ones but I can’t recall who
Yes they are available from a few independants for the OEM items (or they were when I checked). Midland turbos was best price at about £2100 plus vat each. 7-10 day wait, or £300 a side more for next day.
TDI turbos will be able to refurb your current one for £750 + vat to new condition with 2 year warranty provided its not too far cooked...They have developed a repair kit so they machine out the bad part of the housing and weld in a repair piece with a stainless steel over cover so they cant corrode again. eg better to get it done while it is still ok unless your getting brand new
New housings are NLA for this borg warner so Tdi are the only ones who can repair a part corroded one, very helpful bunch they were too. They can also recalibrate the actuators etc
After some digging it seems a few other turbo places are using them for a refurb service on these turbos.
Porsche was something over £3k per side plus vat from memory
The manifold bolts are not the same on a Turbo as they are on the non turbo cars. I fretted over this when I was doing mine and then when I actually went to take them out they all came out very easily.
They are not studs and nuts like the std cars, they are literally a big bolt!
Coolant pipes are obviously the main item that should be replaced. What corrodes on the fittings is the Aluminium cup, it seems to get chocked with a type of residue from the coolant, it then gets behind the alloy fitting, expands and cracks the alloy and a leak starts.
I've seen people change the whole system, flow and return. If your keeping the car for a long time then I suppose this is a belt and braces thing to do but I just changed all the rubber pipes with new ones and cleaned everything out, then sold the car. _________________ 997 Turbo Gen 2
997 Turbo Tiptronic S
Porsche 968 Coupe 1992
Porsche 928 S4
Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera 1985
darkhorse Monza
Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Posts: 179 Location: under the car
Posted: Tue May 14, 2019 2:17 pm Post subject:
easternjets wrote:
The manifold bolts are not the same on a Turbo as they are on the non turbo cars. I fretted over this when I was doing mine and then when I actually went to take them out they all came out very easily.
They are not studs and nuts like the std cars, they are literally a big bolt!
Coolant pipes are obviously the main item that should be replaced. What corrodes on the fittings is the Aluminium cup, it seems to get chocked with a type of residue from the coolant, it then gets behind the alloy fitting, expands and cracks the alloy and a leak starts.
I've seen people change the whole system, flow and return. If your keeping the car for a long time then I suppose this is a belt and braces thing to do but I just changed all the rubber pipes with new ones and cleaned everything out, then sold the car.
Thanks eastern jets, good to know!
This will give me a bit more confidence removing them. I have not read of the same issues as with the 997 NA stud and nut ones, but it will spoil my day if one breaks with the engine out. Needs to be on a lift to get the local specialist to come and drill them out, so I guess I would potentially need to get the removal kit ordered from Stromski and the resultant waiting etc. Hopefully they will come out ok..!!
Well, my turbos arrived today
which is good and bad. Good because they are here and bad because I have to make time to fit them
The engine bay coolant pipes look to have been done very recently as they still look like new with shiny labels, and all the front and centre ones I had done a month ago, but I will definately check and see anything that needs attention.
cheers
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