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Best approach for removing seized-in drop links

S

screwy

New member
Joined
15 Jan 2014
Messages
42
The top end of the front drop links on my C4S appear to have corroded where they pass through the aluminium(?) of the strut assembly.

Unfortunately, the flats at the base of the threaded part are inaccessible as they are captive within the aluminium.

I've tried penetrating oil and tapping with a hammer. Nothing.

What should I try next? Heat? If so, is it OK to heat the aluminium? Or should I try a ball joint separator first? Or a very big hammer?
 

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I had this issue on my C4S last summer. Heat, good penetrant and time - add penetrant over a couple of days.

Have you jacked up the hub a little to take the laid off it? If the car is on jacks and the suspension is fully extended, there could be tension on it.

Ball joint separator might work, but a hammer on its own will cause damage as it is hard to get a direct hit. A hammer and a drift and careful coaxing would be better.

Good luck
 
I went through all the hot / cold / penetrating fluid cycles over a few days and it still wouldn't budge
In the end I cut the bolt flush with the strut with mini angle grinder and 75mm cutting disc, centre popped the bolt head and drilled through with a 6 mm drill and then an 8mm drill, I got about 8mm in with the 8mm when it started to turn and it punched out really easy
 
Squirts of penetrating oil and repeated tapping with a hammer got mine out in the end.
 
lol! - I thought this thread was referring to the same on a C2 rather than a C4. You guys don't know you're born - just add heat and a drift/hammer, you'll be fine.

On a C2 the top end of the link goes through about three solid inches of aluminium upright and it takes days to remove them. I eventually got mine out of my C2 after dismantling it on a bench using a sledge hammer and a blow torch and drilling most of it out. It was a nightmare only topped by an in-situ AOS replacement that I did later. I still wake up in cold sweats because of that one.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I shall dig out the ball joint separator, fire up the blow torch and head back out tomorrow with renewed courage.
 
Ball joint separator was no good as the surfaces were not flat/perpendicular. But a bit of heat did the trick. Thanks all for the suggestions as ever. It gave me the confidence to give it a go.
 

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Martin996RSR said:
lol! - I thought this thread was referring to the same on a C2 rather than a C4. You guys don't know you're born - just add heat and a drift/hammer, you'll be fine.

On a C2 the top end of the link goes through about three solid inches of aluminium upright and it takes days to remove them. I eventually got mine out of my C2 after dismantling it on a bench using a sledge hammer and a blow torch and drilling most of it out. It was a nightmare only topped by an in-situ AOS replacement that I did later. I still wake up in cold sweats because of that one.
Click to expand...

^^^
This, it's part of a right of passage C2 ownership journey, I still have my AOS badge & manifold bolt badges to get - joy.
 
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