Porsche 911 UK Enthusiasts Online Community Discussion Forum GB

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

Marky's 996 ownership thread.

I'm horny. Horny, horny, hor.... ahh you get the idea.

So a quick horn update - We got it working today. Hooray! :D

As I said in my last post it stopped working after adjusting things slightly.
We had no earth once the ignition was turned on. Fine when ignition off.

So the plan of action was to try and find somewhere still earthing through the column, then take a lead from there to a point on the bodyshell.

So this is what we were looking at. The column with cowls etc removed -




The only place we could find continuity with the multi-meter was at this scalloped washer -




This was because the washer had cut through the coating on the outer steering column.
We were going to just twist some wire through one of the scallops in the washer but that seemed a bit Heath Robinson (whatever that is, I heard some old guy say it once :D ).

So we filed some coating off a bit further up -




We then fitted a new earth wire using a jubilee clip and routed it away past the main loom -






We then fitted an eyelet to the other end and mounted it to a bolt that holds the fuse box bracket (eyelet can be seen at top left of second pic. Poor pic sorry) -






Voila! All done and a perfectly working horn again.
The above doesn't interfere with anything on the column or wheel, especially the telescopic adjustment. The scalloped washer is actually the stop for when you push the wheel fully in. As long as you're working above the washer, nothing will be in the way.



After that it was a case of finalising the setting of the stalk unit up against the bottom of the hub to get rid of the audible scuffing sound when steering, then mounting the wheel.

I took the opportunity to renew the 6 mounting bolts on the Momo wheel.
They had always looked a bit washed out and almost dark green rather than black. you'll see it on most Momo's.

Before -




New black bolts from Bella Volante. The usual Porsche tax applies to those, but Craig bought them when he got a set for himself, cheers mate -




All done with horn push back in, although hard to see much difference in the bolts in that light. There is a difference though, honest Guv'ner. :D -





Anyway, it's boring but it might help someone. More mundane minor improvements to follow as the car is pretty much spot on now, so all that's left is minor snagging, like chasing an interior rattle and some wind noise at the drivers door since the bodywork.

As ever, thanks for reading. :thumb:
 
Done a few heath Robinsons in my time !



William Heath Robinson was an English cartoonist, illustrator and artist, best known for drawings of whimsically elaborate machines to achieve simple objectives. In the UK, the term "Heath Robinson" entered the popular language during the 1914–1918 First World War as a description of any unnecessarily complex and implausible contrivance, much as "Rube Goldberg machines" came to be used in the United States from the 1920s onwards as a term for similar efforts. "Heath Robinson contraption" is perhaps more often used in relation to temporary fixes using ingenuity and whatever is to hand, often string and tape, or unlikely cannibalisations. Its continuing popularity was undoubtedly linked to Britain's shortages and the need to "make do and mend" during the Second World War.
 
Cheers Gaz. Everyday's a school day. :thumb:

Im going to have to use the word 'whimsical" now, at some point today. :grin:
 
Hi Marky!

Love your thread.

Did you have any startup ticking/rattle before you adressed your chain guides?

I got this ticking/rattle at coldstard that I heard in many 3.4l engines. It's driving me nuts... I guess it could be lifters and/or chains.

Most people does not seem to be bothered about it but I really want to get rid of the noise!

Regards, Jimmy
 
It's possibly a sticky tappet Jimmy. I've got it too. My car starts nice and quiet, after maybe 10 seconds it starts to tick but only lasts around 30 seconds. This is only on cold start and I always just let it idle for a minute or 2 anyway.
Some say to use an oil additive or just give it plenty of stick. I'll not worry until it's next oil change as the car dosnt do much
 
Hi Jimmy, thanks.

There has been a lot covered on here about the different noises these engines can make.

Firstly it obviously depends on what your noise is.
Cam-chain rattle occurs the second the engine fires into life after turning the key and is a rough sort of 'Brrraapp" noise. Excuse the scientific terminology. :D
It usually goes as quickly as it comes on.

The noise I think Ned is experiencing is what mine and every other 3.4 I know does. The engine starts quietly enough, but after 20-30 seconds there's a light tapping starts. It fades in and out for about another 20-30 seconds then goes. This sounds like piston slap but I'm not sure anyone knows exactly what it is.
I don't worry about this as Craig's car does it and it has had a full Hartech rebuild. Even Hartech have said on here that the noise can still be there after a rebuild.

There's a bit on this thread on pages 7 + 8 about chain rattle at start up.
Some cars do it some don't. Mine used to and it didn't bother me at all. I certainly wouldn't have spent any money or time investigating it.
However by chance my mechanic discovered a weak tensioner when carrying out some work (again page 7+8 ) so we replaced it. After that my start up rattle vanished. It starts after 2 weeks as silently as after 2 hours now.

Do I think that was related to my worn chain guide pads? No. They just wear anyway.
When I found my pads were worn I said to my mechanic 'Did the faulty tensioner cause premature wear?" He explained that the tensioner in question was for a different chain so had nothing do with it.

So as I said to someone on page 8, by all means look into it, but you may find nothing obvious wrong. To do it you need to lock the timing and remove the 3 tensioners. You'll tell as you unbolt them if they're ok, as there'll be pressure there. My faulty one screwed out far too easily as there was no pressure pushing on the threads.

You cannot get our style tensioners from Porsche now. They have changed the design and the new style don't work with our old chains/pads.
So even if you find a dodgy tensioner you'd have to find a good used one to replace it. Which is probably easy enough though.

I hope that helps. Have a look back through the thread to see mine.
Cheers. :thumb:
 
As you mention, it starts a few seconds after cold start, and goes away in 30 seconds or so...

Next winter I might have a look at new chains and guides, as well as replacing the tappets...
 
Morning Jimmy,

well personally I doubt it's either of those but obviously have a go by all means. It's your car and you want it right.

Chains either rattle or they don't and if they do it's just for a second until the oil pressure builds up inside them and extends them properly.

Again, tappets either tick or they don't.

All just my personal take on it though, but I'm pretty sure the 20 second tapping on mine at cold start is further down the motor. It's not as ticky and light as a tappet. It's a bit deeper sounding.
As long as it goes away quickly it's nothing to worry about. I just know that if Hartech can't pinpoint and eliminate it, I'm not about to start trying. :grin:

Report back though, if you solve it. Good luck. :thumb:

PS. The only chains you can change without stripping the bottom end are the small ones that drive the cams. The others are in one piece and can only be swapped during a rebuild.
 
Marky911 said:
You cannot get our style tensioners from Porsche now. They have changed the design and the new style don't work with our old chains/pads.
So even if you find a dodgy tensioner you'd have to find a good used one to replace it.

Not true. I ordered some for mine, and plan to change them at the next round of work:

99610518602 - chain adjuster - Bank 1
99610518059 - chain adjuster - IMS
99610518802 - chain adjuster - Bank 2

These are the latest revision of the original roller chain type..
 
Not true 'now" maybe.
Something has obviously changed since I needed mine then.
They simply were not available.

Glad you got sorted though. I'll let my Indy know about them.
 
Wonder where you tried to order from?

Mine came from East London OPC - two were in stock, one ordered in.
 
Teeside OPC.

We are going back something like 18 months iirc.
Messaged my Indy earlier and he says 'Must be back in then".

I can only go from our experience and that was that there weren't any old style ones available and probably wouldn't be again.

Good news for yourself and anyone needing any in the future though and I can stop spreading duff info now I know. :grin:
 
When I enquired last year I heard that the only ones available were longer - and don't work with the old tensioner pads inside the engine. The revised ones you had to change the pads as well, and I wasn't up for tearing the engine down.

Just be sure to compare new and old before fitting.
 

New Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
124,557
Messages
1,441,493
Members
48,969
Latest member
Stulees65
Back
Top