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Brake pipe over gearbox

I would hazard a guess that at least 7 out of 10 996's are still on the brake fluid they left Germany with. It'll need flushed no matter what happens.

Good on ya for doin the gaskets. Ya have to do whatever it takes to own the dream. :thumb:
 
I would hazard a guess that at least 7 out of 10 996's are still on the brake fluid they left Germany with.

:eek:
 
I'd like to think that more than 3 in 10 have a proper service done - at least when the car was a little younger. My 996 is on its 5th lot of brake fluid from a full change. Whilst I do pretty much all of my own work and keep all receipts from parts, when it comes to service time I take it to my specialist for a couple of reasons. Firstly its a stamp in the book and another good receipt to add, secondly he has the kit to do a proper FULL fluid change when required and thirdly I think its important to have a different set of eyes and ears going over the car - even if just for peace of mind.
 
I'd be very surprised if the fluids changed every 2 years or whatever the time frame may be. Worked in a different manufacturers dealership when I was younger and I don't think I had ever seen it done.

I hear ya on the stamp in the book. Mine has full history. apart from 1 stamp it's all opc and specialist. Mice to have but I'd say it's basic oil change stuff. At least reading more into it, it is. You have to look beyond a stamp when buying
 
The reason I am surprised by your comment is that, as you are probably aware, brake fluid is hygroscopic and aside from the poor pedal feel associated with moisture in the fluid, 20 years of moisture infused fluid would render abs pumps and modules inoperative due to heavy corrosion of the internals.
 
You maybe right but it's a time consuming thing that I'd bet just isn't done.

Just on abs, does anyone ever delete it?
Either for track cars or due to pump problems
 
There is a lot of conjecture over brake fluid change .

As mentioned , over time brake fluid absorbs moisture .. water in essence .

This will boil at 100 degrees so the more water the more chance of this happening.

Boiling water will produce air .. in brakes it gives a soft or in extereme cases no brake pedal ... pump it and you will have a pedal though .

There are cheap tools you can buy to measure the amount of moisture in a brake system .

Every 2 years .. its a bit over kill but thats what Porsche recomend .

Now then .. these cars are not new .. not every bleed nipple will come undone.

So the theroy is you wont have a total fluid change ..

heres an example ..

Raceing blue fluid .. i changed it back to standard .. started n/s/r ..

I watched the blue fluid come out of the n/s/r .. it took over half a ltr untill it went clear .. i then did the other corners.

A standard fluid change is to take 1/4 ltr per corner out .

Basically unless you take over half a ltr out of the n/s/r then you are not clearing the line .. sucking out the resevoir would have made it less though.

A small amount of fluid left in the system wil have no impact .

Dot 4 boiling point is about 145 degrees .

Think about it .. if you replace 50 % then you have halved the amount of water in the system .. normal change and i would estimate 90 % plus .

The odd siezed nipple or indeed a total caliper would still change the vast majority of the fluid .

this is fine .

Bear in mind .. an oil change doesnt get all the oil out .. it will still leave 1 - 1.5 ltrs of oil in an engine .

Brake fluid change is aimed at getting as much moisture contaminated fluid out as possible .. in 2 years .. hmm .. not going to be much moisture in the system .
 
Very well put demort. Not really a problem of changing fluid when your changing all the pipes.
Never heard of racing blue fluid. I just tend to use 5.1
 
and change to stainless nipples while you're at it.
 
...interesting and Iain after my recent engine rebuild and replacement over gearbox brake lines replacement the brakes were bled (takijg litres of fluid) however an inner rear drivers side nipple sheared thus this couldn't be bled...should I worry that air might be trapped in this short brake line leading to a less than perfect brake feel?

In other words do I need to rush to remove caliper and have a new bleed nipple fitted?
 
GMG said:
...interesting and Iain after my recent engine rebuild and replacement over gearbox brake lines replacement the brakes were bled (takijg litres of fluid) however an inner rear drivers side nipple sheared thus this couldn't be bled...should I worry that air might be trapped in this short brake line leading to a less than perfect brake feel?

In other words do I need to rush to remove caliper and have a new bleed nipple fitted?

If the line to that caliper was renewed there is a chance of air in that side of the caliper. I would get it sorted.

Don't let anyone try to drill it out in place. I took my caliper to an old school engineering shop where it was mounted in the mill, drilled out, thread cleaned up and a new nipple seat cut. Cost £50 and took less than an hour.

These steel nipples in alloy calipers are so easy to make a mess of.

When removing the caliper you might find the line nut on the caliper or flexy well stuck too.....but if that line to the caliper has been replaced then it will come undone fine, just don't let the fluid drain down, you can stick an old bleed nipple in the end of the flexi to block it off.
 
A decent 'basic' service is still so much more than just a 'stamp in the book'. At a cheap backstreet garage then yes its probably just an oil and filter change but its very different at a quality specialist. One thing I didnt consider which my indy did as part of the most basic service was to use PIWIS to check cam deviation (which I cant do given I dont have PIWIS) and the peace of mind it gave me to be told I had 0 degree deviation between both banks and the crank was really great for me to hear (later engine so cam sensor on each bank). He also pressure tested my coolant system - again great to know that I dont have any slow leaks. Despite knowing my car inside out, it gave me great confidence in its condition - its a nice feeling.
 
Stoo.c said:
A decent 'basic' service is still so much more than just a 'stamp in the book'. At a cheap backstreet garage then yes its probably just an oil and filter change but its very different at a quality specialist. One thing I didnt consider which my indy did as part of the most basic service was to use PIWIS to check cam deviation (which I cant do given I dont have PIWIS) and the peace of mind it gave me to be told I had 0 degree deviation between both banks and the crank was really great for me to hear (later engine so cam sensor on each bank). He also pressure tested my coolant system - again great to know that I dont have any slow leaks. Despite knowing my car inside out, it gave me great confidence in its condition - its a nice feeling.

:thumb:

I check my cam deviation figure (3.4 so can only see one side) with durametric.

Some indies are better than others, but all should know the common issues on these cars and be able to flag anything at service time.
 
GMG said:
...interesting and Iain after my recent engine rebuild and replacement over gearbox brake lines replacement the brakes were bled (takijg litres of fluid) however an inner rear drivers side nipple sheared thus this couldn't be bled...should I worry that air might be trapped in this short brake line leading to a less than perfect brake feel?

In other words do I need to rush to remove caliper and have a new bleed nipple fitted?

Sorry .. i missed this ..

I tend to find that not bleeding both sides of a caliper will leave air in the system .. but this is pretty obvious .. its a very soft pedal .. if the pedal feels the same as it always has then its ok , unusual but ok .

Ok so a seized nipple .. they are not always siezed .. i give it a certain amount to try and undo .. after that i flag it as possibly seized .. it may come undone with more force .. but on a one day service the last thing you want to do is snap a bleed nipple .

garages will get authority before continuing .. you may be lucky .. if so i would recomend asking them to replace the nipple ... if i had 6 i thought were seized .. then 2 will snap.

Again its not uncomon for them to come undone a bit but then seize .. you can often get them tight enough to seal .. but you will be in trouble if you try to replace them .. it will drag the threads out with the nipple .

For the other comments .. different indys do different things .. i like to browse through the various settings for x2 reasons ..

One being i need to remember the settings for a good car with no faults .. its kinda refreshing my memory .. each model is different so we need to stay on top of it .

Second is obvioulsly looking for issues .

Actually there is a third .. im weird and like looking at the figures :floor:

Cam deviation will flag a fault code once at 11 degrees .. but with only one sensor on the early cars its not a real check of chain stretch .. which is still pretty rare to be fair .
 

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