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Porsche Specialist Surrey, Porsche Specialist London, Porsche Specialist East Sussex, Porsche Specialist West Sussex, Porsche Specialist South

2001 C4 project car

Just found this thread, & it's looking like something I'd love to do myself at some point... If only 996 4 s's would drop to a decent (cheap) price point...
 
Martin996RSR said:
There is plenty of metal both fore and aft of the strut top mounting points, a strut brace would be putting a hat on a hat.

The flex in the 996 chassis comes from a lack of rigidity between the A and B pillars. You can solve for that with a cage that ties into more than just the floor, i.e. somewhere on both the A and B pillars too.
Click to expand...

The cage that I am using is the safety devices on, it ties on to the rear suspension mounts and the floor at the front of the seats, as well as the floor at the front of the car. I will look to see what can be done to tie it in to the two pillars when I get to that points. Thanks for the tip :)


I have decided to copy what Richard did on his CLR project and remove the sound insulation from the rear of the car and cover the rear shelf in alcantara. First job is to remove the insulation. I've read a few ways of doing this, either heating it up or cooling it down. It sounds like the heating method produces a right mess so I decided to attack it with some circuit freezer spray and a strong trim removal tool and mallet. I got about this far in a little over 10 minutes but now need more spray.



MC
 
Exposed areas at the strut tower top cleaned up and treated with two coats of POR15 before the strut goes in.





Wiring for the PSE znd centre radiator temperature sensor routed over the top of the inner arch and through to the engine bay through tge large grommet at the rear.



MC
 
Here is a quick note on the brakes. Standard brakes for Carrera 4 996 are as follows.

Front disk, 318mm diameter, effective diameter 261.8mm
Rear disk, 299mm diameter, effective diameter 247.6mm

Front calipers use 36 and 40mm pistons. Area 2275mm^2
Rear calipers use 28 and 30mm pistons. Area 1323mm^2

Multiplying piston area by effective diameter gives the following forces and ratios.

Front. 2275x261.8 = 585595
Rear. 1323x247.6 = 327575
Front to back ratio of 1.82:1

New brakes are Cayenne turbo front calipers, 996 turbo rear calipers. 997 GT3 disks front and rear. Turbo calipers are required for the thicker disk for the GT3. Scaling up from the standard ones as I couldn't find figures for effective diameters gives.

Front disk, 350mm diameter, effective diameter 288mm
Rear disk, 350mm diameter, effective diameter 290mm

Front calipers use 30,34,40mm pistons. Area 2749mm^2
Rear calipers use 28 and 30mm pistons. Area 1323mm^2

Front. 2749x288 = 791712
Rear. 1323x290 = 383670
Front to back ratio of 2.06:1

So the new brakes have a slightly higher front bias.

Ratio of piston areas on new to old is 1.13:1
Old master cylinder is 23.81mm, new is 27mm. So 1.28x more area.
The new master cylinder will push more fluid than is needed.

The GT3 6 piston calipers uses smaller pistons at 28,32,34mm. Using these on the front would have given a more rearward brake bias of 1.75:1

There is a presure reducing valve fitted to the rear which there might be some leeway for tweaking or fitting different version from another car, but I haven't investigated yet. I will see how the slightly increased front bias affects the car first.

MC
 
Tha caliper bodies are basically the same size as the 996 GT3 mk2 ones I have on my turbo. They are as big as will fit in an 18" wheel.
'Look at the brakes on that 911, they look too big' Said nobody, ever :grin:

MC
 
I had an hour long tour of MC's project today and its all very impressive seeing firsthand what has been done so far and what the plans are for it, there is still a long way to go though but it will look very very good once completed.

I especially like the brake set up and it is a pity you will never see that suspension set up once the car is on the deck.
 
Dammit said:
Surely that depends on whether he gets a bit carried away with his hole-saw?
Click to expand...

That was the scariest thing I have done in a long time. The sense of relief when it all worked out great was just superb. The only body parts available from Porsche are a 'front end'. Pretty much everything else I have done is easily reversible.

MC
 
Checking clearance of the brakes with the wheels on. I previously tried 5mm spacers before they were on the car and it looked tight, this is the first time I have had the callipers and wheels properly bolted on to the car to check them. This is now running 7mm spacers. There is decent clearance all the way around, more than on my turbo.









A custom pipe is required to go the brake bracket on the back of the hub. This connects to new HEL lines. As the line was fitted to the car it didn't fall naturally in to place so had to have a 90 degree twist applied on both sides to get it to line up properly which I'm not 100% happy about. It does have decent movement on to fully look both ways though. Thoughts?





MC
 
infrasilver said:
I had an hour long tour of MC's project today and its all very impressive seeing firsthand what has been done so far and what the plans are for it, there is still a long way to go though but it will look very very good once completed.

I especially like the brake set up and it is a pity you will never see that suspension set up once the car is on the deck.
Click to expand...

:envy:

The worksmanship looks incredible. I thought Richie's work could t be topped but this is up there with it. A real pleasure to follow. Great work Martin :thumbs:
 
Thanks for the kind words New997Buyer.

The centre radiator is being controlled based on the return temperature of the coolant from the radiators. So it will only be turned on when the other two radiators can't cope by themselves. This done with a temperature sensor in the main line just before the thermostat. Shown here fitted to the old hose, alongside a new hose.



And here in a trial fit on the engine without clips.


This is then wired up to the lead which runs along the back of the engine bay up to the fuse box.





This goes through the grommet on the right hand side with the PSE actuation wire.



These will get taped up more neatly when the engine is out.

I'm going to run with the old hose for now and then swap to the new one when the engine is out. This will give me a chance to confirm correct operation and that the sensor positioning is all fine before I cut the new hose.

MC
 
As the roof is coming off, the roof rails need to be removed. Lift these up from the front edge and carefully lift along the length to pull out the clips.



There are clips under here which are wedged in place. These can be unwedged using a pair of pliers to release them.






Near the front and the back are the rails on to which the roof transport system bolts. It isn't obvious how these fit, but with a pointer from ELA in the right direction there are nuts underneath which have an internal 6mm hex. Undo the nut, then remove the sealant along the inside edge to remove them.





That is then everything off the roof. On the inside of the strip are plastic clips which can be removed with a pointed tool to lever them out.






The roof is now ready for when the bodyshop drill out the spot welds to remove it.

MC
 
The trim around the rear windows has been removed by drilling out the rivets. For most of them I have just taken the tops off for now, I'll remove the rest when I think I can get enough magnets and other stuff pushed in behind them to catch the majority of the heads. I doubt I will get them all. Hopefully any I don't catch will make it down to the sill where they can be removed. There is not a lot of clearance for some of the rivets so a right angle drill attachment was required.





MC
 
Most of the sealant removed from around the front and rear screen apertures with a sharp knife.





MC
 
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