It looks like you hae dry-break joints on the lines coming from the front shocks to the reservoirs, so does that mean you can mount them somewhere near the battery or in the frunk?
Yes, that is the plan. I'll figure out where and get some mountings made once the front struts are in.
I managed to confirm that the rear shock was the wrong one, so that has been swapped over and the other side fitted.
For the front struts I need to open up the top of the strut tower, so I've made up an aluminium template with the centre hole marked in it, in the hope that I can use this as a guide and get in with an 86mm holesaw.
MC
Hertsdriver Monza
Joined: 12 Nov 2018 Posts: 202 Location: Hertfordshire/London
why do you need to open it up? is there not enough room to manouver it into place, put the hose through first then the fitting at an angle? it looks like it has the height to clear the edge of the hole once fitted.
MisterCorn Dijon
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 7069 Location: Nottingham, England
why do you need to open it up? is there not enough room to manouver it into place, put the hose through first then the fitting at an angle? it looks like it has the height to clear the edge of the hole once fitted.
No it won't fit. I could have the dampers modified so that it would fit, however it would be impossible to get to the adjusters to tweak the camber/caster without unbolting and dropping the mounts.
MC
Chief Magny-Cours
Joined: 16 Sep 2010 Posts: 2725 Location: The Middle lands
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2018 8:53 pm Post subject:
Love it, just love it pal _________________ - 964 C2 The Red Baron - 914 2.0 Project Blue Book - Cayman S Sport Edition Amber Alert! -
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DynoMike Albert Park
Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 1553 Location: The Cotswolds
The front strut towers need opening up to enable access to the caster/camber adjustments on the front top mounts. To do this I got a piece of scrap aluminium and put holes in in the top mount locations for 8mm bolts and drilled a 1/4" hole in what is the centre of the adjusters. This was then bolted to the car to act as a guide for the hole saw.
Plate in place and area masked up to keep the metal shaving mess to a minimum.
I used a bit of oil to lubricate it, I needed to take it slowly as this is an 80mm holesaw and didn't want it to overheat.
Time to take a brave pill and drill the chassis.
Trial fit after drilling and cleaning up the edges.
Then move on to the other side.
The edge are deburred and cleaned and I'll finish smoothing them off tomorrow before they get a coating of POR15 for protection.
This is how much material was removed.
MC
Ghianightmare Spa-Francorchamps
Joined: 25 Apr 2017 Posts: 330 Location: Dublin
Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 7:47 pm Post subject:
Nice neat job. Good housekeeping with the plastic.
Will you roll the edges at all to restore some strength? _________________ 2002 Seal Grey C4S
MisterCorn Dijon
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 7069 Location: Nottingham, England
Nice neat job. Good housekeeping with the plastic.
Will you roll the edges at all to restore some strength?
No. I don't think it will make any difference as they are mostly vertical anyway, so the strength around the base is still there. Besides, I don't see how I could do it easily and neatly. I might put a brace on top to clamp the strut top.
MC
deMort Long Beach
Joined: 21 Mar 2015 Posts: 6783 Location: Brighton
Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 8:08 pm Post subject:
MC .. can i just say .. this would scare the crap outa me if it was a booked in job .. fair play there young man .
Wiring .. i know its what you do but hats off there .. impressive !
ill carry on Lurking _________________ .
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infrasilver Fast & Furious
Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Posts: 8259 Location: East Midlands
Nice neat job. Good housekeeping with the plastic.
Will you roll the edges at all to restore some strength?
No. I don't think it will make any difference as they are mostly vertical anyway, so the strength around the base is still there. Besides, I don't see how I could do it easily and neatly. I might put a brace on top to clamp the strut top.
MC
The top mounting on the strut will help keep most of its rigidity but I would still like more strength in there with some kind of donut on top, the shape of the strut tower doesn't lend itself well to this idea though.
I have looked at all the strut braces I can find for the 996 but I don't like any of them. Due to the battery position they all lift up very high and so don't look very strong. However with my battery being much lower there is room to run something in a more sensible position. What I would like to do is make up a front strut brace which would pick up on all three of the suspension top mount points as well as on the two mounts for the standard front brace, to tie up the whole front end. It would go somewhere like this:
I'm not suggesting it is made with a balance pipe from an E46 M3 though.
I hold fire on doing anything until the front end of the car is back together and I can see which pipes go where. no rush.
MC
Martin996RSR Spa-Francorchamps
Joined: 08 Dec 2016 Posts: 333
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:15 am Post subject:
There is plenty of metal both fore and aft of the strut top mounting points, a strut brace would be putting a hat on a hat.
The flex in the 996 chassis comes from a lack of rigidity between the A and B pillars. You can solve for that with a cage that ties into more than just the floor, i.e. somewhere on both the A and B pillars too.
Just found this thread, & it's looking like something I'd love to do myself at some point... If only 996 4 s's would drop to a decent (cheap) price point... _________________ 996 C4s (Gone)
997 Turbo
S3 Daily Driver
MisterCorn Dijon
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 7069 Location: Nottingham, England
There is plenty of metal both fore and aft of the strut top mounting points, a strut brace would be putting a hat on a hat.
The flex in the 996 chassis comes from a lack of rigidity between the A and B pillars. You can solve for that with a cage that ties into more than just the floor, i.e. somewhere on both the A and B pillars too.
The cage that I am using is the safety devices on, it ties on to the rear suspension mounts and the floor at the front of the seats, as well as the floor at the front of the car. I will look to see what can be done to tie it in to the two pillars when I get to that points. Thanks for the tip
I have decided to copy what Richard did on his CLR project and remove the sound insulation from the rear of the car and cover the rear shelf in alcantara. First job is to remove the insulation. I've read a few ways of doing this, either heating it up or cooling it down. It sounds like the heating method produces a right mess so I decided to attack it with some circuit freezer spray and a strong trim removal tool and mallet. I got about this far in a little over 10 minutes but now need more spray.
MC
MisterCorn Dijon
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 7069 Location: Nottingham, England
Exposed areas at the strut tower top cleaned up and treated with two coats of POR15 before the strut goes in.
Wiring for the PSE znd centre radiator temperature sensor routed over the top of the inner arch and through to the engine bay through tge large grommet at the rear.
MC
MisterCorn Dijon
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 7069 Location: Nottingham, England
Front calipers use 36 and 40mm pistons. Area 2275mm^2
Rear calipers use 28 and 30mm pistons. Area 1323mm^2
Multiplying piston area by effective diameter gives the following forces and ratios.
Front. 2275x261.8 = 585595
Rear. 1323x247.6 = 327575
Front to back ratio of 1.82:1
New brakes are Cayenne turbo front calipers, 996 turbo rear calipers. 997 GT3 disks front and rear. Turbo calipers are required for the thicker disk for the GT3. Scaling up from the standard ones as I couldn't find figures for effective diameters gives.
Front calipers use 30,34,40mm pistons. Area 2749mm^2
Rear calipers use 28 and 30mm pistons. Area 1323mm^2
Front. 2749x288 = 791712
Rear. 1323x290 = 383670
Front to back ratio of 2.06:1
So the new brakes have a slightly higher front bias.
Ratio of piston areas on new to old is 1.13:1
Old master cylinder is 23.81mm, new is 27mm. So 1.28x more area.
The new master cylinder will push more fluid than is needed.
The GT3 6 piston calipers uses smaller pistons at 28,32,34mm. Using these on the front would have given a more rearward brake bias of 1.75:1
There is a presure reducing valve fitted to the rear which there might be some leeway for tweaking or fitting different version from another car, but I haven't investigated yet. I will see how the slightly increased front bias affects the car first.
MC
ragpicker Reims
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 4009 Location: North East England
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