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2001 C4 project car

Martin996RSR said:
It looks like you hae dry-break joints on the lines coming from the front shocks to the reservoirs, so does that mean you can mount them somewhere near the battery or in the frunk?

Yes, that is the plan. I'll figure out where and get some mountings made once the front struts are in.

I managed to confirm that the rear shock was the wrong one, so that has been swapped over and the other side fitted.



For the front struts I need to open up the top of the strut tower, so I've made up an aluminium template with the centre hole marked in it, in the hope that I can use this as a guide and get in with an 86mm holesaw.





MC
 
why do you need to open it up? is there not enough room to manouver it into place, put the hose through first then the fitting at an angle? it looks like it has the height to clear the edge of the hole once fitted.
 
Hertsdriver said:
why do you need to open it up? is there not enough room to manouver it into place, put the hose through first then the fitting at an angle? it looks like it has the height to clear the edge of the hole once fitted.

No it won't fit. I could have the dampers modified so that it would fit, however it would be impossible to get to the adjusters to tweak the camber/caster without unbolting and dropping the mounts.

MC
 
Love it, just love it pal :thumb: :bandit: :bandit: :bandit: :bandit: :bandit:
 
Some proper components being used here MC, good to see. Do you mind me asking what price the Exe-tc dampers were? (By PM if that is more appropriate).

Motorsport toe arms are on my radar too, Matt has already priced these up for me.

Keep up the good work :thumb:
 
DynoMike said:
Some proper components being used here MC, good to see. Do you mind me asking what price the Exe-tc dampers were? (By PM if that is more appropriate).

Motorsport toe arms are on my radar too, Matt has already priced these up for me.

Keep up the good work :thumb:

Neil has emailled you about a hopeful get together soon on the engine work, I'll fill you in when I see you. Matt sourced the toe arms.

MC
 
MisterCorn said:
Neil has emailled you about a hopeful get together soon on the engine work, I'll fill you in when I see you. Matt sourced the toe arms.

MC

Look forward to seeing you both.

Mike.
 
Wiring finished off.

From this.


To this.



Then bolted back in place.


There is one unattached wire. It is for the sounder for the tracker. Which I don't intend to fit but have left there in case I change my mind.

MC
 
The front strut towers need opening up to enable access to the caster/camber adjustments on the front top mounts. To do this I got a piece of scrap aluminium and put holes in in the top mount locations for 8mm bolts and drilled a 1/4" hole in what is the centre of the adjusters. This was then bolted to the car to act as a guide for the hole saw.

Plate in place and area masked up to keep the metal shaving mess to a minimum.







I used a bit of oil to lubricate it, I needed to take it slowly as this is an 80mm holesaw and didn't want it to overheat.

Time to take a brave pill and drill the chassis.

Trial fit after drilling and cleaning up the edges.





Then move on to the other side.





The edge are deburred and cleaned and I'll finish smoothing them off tomorrow before they get a coating of POR15 for protection.

This is how much material was removed.



MC
 
Nice neat job. Good housekeeping with the plastic.

Will you roll the edges at all to restore some strength?
 
Ghianightmare said:
Nice neat job. Good housekeeping with the plastic.

Will you roll the edges at all to restore some strength?

No. I don't think it will make any difference as they are mostly vertical anyway, so the strength around the base is still there. Besides, I don't see how I could do it easily and neatly. I might put a brace on top to clamp the strut top.

MC
 
MC .. can i just say .. this would scare the crap outa me if it was a booked in job .. fair play there young man .

Wiring .. i know its what you do but hats off there .. impressive !

ill carry on Lurking :)
 
MisterCorn said:
Ghianightmare said:
Nice neat job. Good housekeeping with the plastic.

Will you roll the edges at all to restore some strength?

No. I don't think it will make any difference as they are mostly vertical anyway, so the strength around the base is still there. Besides, I don't see how I could do it easily and neatly. I might put a brace on top to clamp the strut top.

MC

The top mounting on the strut will help keep most of its rigidity but I would still like more strength in there with some kind of donut on top, the shape of the strut tower doesn't lend itself well to this idea though.

A strut brace may be useful if you can get it to go around your pipework.
 
I have looked at all the strut braces I can find for the 996 but I don't like any of them. Due to the battery position they all lift up very high and so don't look very strong. However with my battery being much lower there is room to run something in a more sensible position. What I would like to do is make up a front strut brace which would pick up on all three of the suspension top mount points as well as on the two mounts for the standard front brace, to tie up the whole front end. It would go somewhere like this:



I'm not suggesting it is made with a balance pipe from an E46 M3 though.

I hold fire on doing anything until the front end of the car is back together and I can see which pipes go where. no rush.

MC
 
There is plenty of metal both fore and aft of the strut top mounting points, a strut brace would be putting a hat on a hat.

The flex in the 996 chassis comes from a lack of rigidity between the A and B pillars. You can solve for that with a cage that ties into more than just the floor, i.e. somewhere on both the A and B pillars too.
 

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