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Engine drop

If they've painted it the wrong colour then I'd ask them to strip it and re paint it.
Frustrating, I can imagine you want to push on and get things moving, but not the end of the world.

Jack D
 
I'm surprised to find Nitromors is removing the excess coating quite easily and a rattle can of VHT aluminium is adhereing well, giving the wanted colour so I will press on. Welder coming this week to sort the chassis leg.
I've dunked a few rusty items in Evaporust, amazing results.
Should have taken a few before and after shots but it really works.
 
Fan is newish I did paint the shroud myself. POR15 self etching primer followed by POR detail cast iron.
 
Endoman said:
Got the bits back from powder coating, the engine tin and wing stays came out fine. Not so good with the aluminium suspension components. I asked for silver grey and they did them white, they look awful. It's so thick I can't get a bolt through the mounting points. I will try to clean out the bolt holes with chemical stripper first and overpaint the coating, failing that it will be back to the powder coaters. Wish I hadn't done it, a simple blast and spray with clear lacquer would have been better. You can't get the nasty but effective stripper easily. I'm so depressed. :nooo:

Best, quickest and simplest way is give them a scrub up and then a quick spray with a tin of wheel silver, job done and they look factory fresh, that's all I did with mine anyways. UI only had a select few bits with powder coating, bumper stops and supports, that was about it.

Trev
 
Chris the welder did his bit today. Great bloke, very tidy work and reasonable price. £280.
I even tried a bit of electroplating and it worked.
 

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Lovely work, always feels good to remove the dreaded rot....

now time to get a rattle can of Guards red....just make sure you tape up those pesky studs...

Trev
 
First coat of Electrolux on, wait 96hrs 2nd coat, then another 96hrs and I'll be using 2 pack epoxy. On the other side which is sound as I did it with POR15 8yrs ago I'll give it a touch up. Good tip about the threads Trev, thx.
The rot will really run down those chassis legs if they get a hole in them, he had to chase the seam quite clise to the suspension mount.
 
Good work Endoman :thumb: .
 
Gearbox reconnected. I had a slight moment when removing the bolt from the realease lever. I heard a clatter, the outer bearing had dropped to the bottom of the bellhousing. Luckily it was easy to retrieve with a magnetic probe. I'd have hated for it to happen with the engine in situ.
Following the chassis leg thread I have also got some bubbling in the l/h sill, it will have to wait until the car is back on the road though. This will be the third time that sill has needed work.
 
Looking good Endoman. Looks very similar to mine and also the L/H sill bubbling. :thumbs:
 
After a long time searching I've found a varioram inlet manifold. The timing is just right as the engine is out but a few more bits will be needed for the conversion.
 
Endoman said:
After a long time searching I've found a varioram inlet manifold. The timing is just right as the engine is out but a few more bits will be needed for the conversion.

Wow big move, I know this is reasonably popular in US but not something I've heard of over here, though having an RS rep like yours it entirely makes sense.

I'd seen that you used Galvo sheet steel for your chassis leg repair, just wondering why?, as most of the galvo would be removed for the welding?, at which point you'd need lots of protection at the welds and beyond.

Trev
 
It was Chris that chose to use Galvo hence the immediate post weld application of high zinc primer, a bit tricky on the inside of the box section.
He did paint the inside of the repair with red lead primer before welding.
I've been searching for a varioram inlet for ages so I jumped at this one. I found a 928 vac reservoir which looks identical to the 993 one, just need an airbox and ECU now. Following this thread :- https://rennlist.com/forums/993-for...ram-conversion-step-by-step-more-or-less.html
 
Endoman said:
It was Chris that chose to use Galvo hence the immediate post weld application of high zinc primer, a bit tricky on the inside of the box section.
He did paint the inside of the repair with red lead primer before welding.
I've been searching for a varioram inlet for ages so I jumped at this one. I found a 928 vac reservoir which looks identical to the 993 one, just need an airbox and ECU now. Following this thread :- https://rennlist.com/forums/993-for...ram-conversion-step-by-step-more-or-less.html

If you haven't already bought the 928 egg box you can just use the small 964 vac canister for the Vram instead. I've had this setup with a 993 Vram in a 964 for quite a few years now and always has enough vac to drive the actuators.

vram-done3.jpg


Did you get the inlet from a C2 or C4 car?

Good luck with the swap.
 

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