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More chassis legs

Inside the LH chassis leg. You wouldn't think it wasthe same one :worship:
 

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Insides were treated with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and all outer surfaces with Dynax UB. This is not going to rust again.
New wing supports also painted and fitted with Sikaflex on the mating faces to stop water creeping behind.

The bumper beam tubes also needed replacing as they were badly corroded. OE 993 part 99350501900 costs £76+vat each. With a bit of research I found that the 996 uses exactly the same part but with a different part number 99650501901 only costs £29+vat each!
 

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Most of the heat shields just needed a really good clean but the small shields that cover the silencer pipes were missing so these were replaced. New Top Gear exhaust system also fitted with Dansk big ovals. :thumbs:

The small brackets which hold the lower PU and heat shield were also badly corroded. As an experiment I put them in a solution of Bilt Hamber Deox C. The result was impressive so they were painted and reused.
 

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Re: wheel arches

stichill99 said:
Cableguy,did you just get the wheel arches cleaned and painted or did you have to paint the whole wing? When my car was in getting scuttle done I commented to the body shop there was some light bubbles on the inner lip of wheel arches and could they tidy them up? He replied that he would need to paint the whole side of the car which seemed ridiculous. I would have thought a good painter could have blended the inner lip without needing to come up onto the side of the car?

Sounds like your body shop were right as my chassis legs and arches resulted in an almost half car respray.

C.
 

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My brackets had met the same faith Mashby and I was also able to save them too. Amazing what a good Aqua Blast can do. Rustproofed them prior to reinstalling. Love the tips. Exciting times.
 

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mashby said:
After cutting the rot out I ground off the surface corrosion and zinc primed. A friend made up a repair panel for the near side and a small patch for the off side.

Just checked those on my car, near side has a small pinhole and the off side has a small 5cm hole.

Can I ask what gauge/thickness material the repair panel is?
 
Mine was repaired with 20g galvanised sheet with stainless studs welded in.
 

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I'm not exactly sure as a friend made it up to match the existing thickness although it looked to be about 1mm thick / 20 swg as Endoman says.
 
Endoman said:
Mine was repaired with 20g galvanised sheet with stainless studs welded in.

Thanks for the info, did you manage to find suitable studs for the heat shield, they are an odd very coarse thread?
 
mashby said:
I'm not exactly sure as a friend made it up to match the existing thickness although it looked to be about 1mm thick / 20 swg as Endoman says.

Thanks for the info.
 
The heat shield studs are a type of CD weld stud. There is a supplier locally https://www.advanced-studwelding.co.uk/ but only sells them by the 1000. He gave me a handful which I passed on to 9m. It's a tricky business doing them in situ so Chris used the same M6 studs as the wing struts. I found those on ebay, M6 self clinching stainless studs.
If you want the correct ones any local good body shop should have them but the equipment to fit them is pretty expensive and it's difficult to get a weld as strong as the factory original. When I did the rear seat delete I fitted RS seat belt reel covers retained by those same weld studs, it took 9m several attempts to get a decent weld.
I would rather have duplicated the original but these will probably outlast the car and no one will see them.
 
I used M5 studs on mine for the heat shields and M6 for the wing plate studs and as Endoman says they are not seen so more than happy.
 

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