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Engine drop

Great work again. I wish I knew about PB Blaster when i was doing my refresh. Would have saved me a lot of pain. :sad:
 
Endoman said:
If I hadn't acquired the new garage and lift I wouldn't have started. I'm semi-retired so plenty of time and I was one of those kids who took his toys apart to see how it worked.

I like that approach. I'm knocking on the door of semi-retirement now, and need somewhere to tinker....
Although I can use my garage, there is nowhere near enough room to start big jobs like this - I can't even open the doors fully!

Was the large garage part of a house move - or is it a rental?

I've tried all sorts to try and find something long term in the same area (buy or rent) but can't find anything :dont know:
 
We acquired the house and garage due to a family bereavement. It's an old farm and needed a lot of remedial work and modernisation. It was a toss up whether to move or sell. I didn't need any persuasion to move as it has a 4 car garage , workshop and a massive cellar.
We are still not in the house but the garage has been rewired, junk cleared out and lift installed. You can see where my priorities lie. :)
I'm in the process of putting some insulation in as well as working on the car.
The house should be ready in the new year, new kitchen, 2 new bathrooms, downstairs toilet and utility room, well you have to keep her sweet.
It feels a bit like one of Keith McCloud's projects.
My old garage was a small single and all work had to done on the drive so this is diy heaven.
My mate Dave only has a small single garage but he's dropped the engine in there. His car is immaculate. Bolton OPC had it in the showroom a few months with his baby 1/6 scale 911.
 
I've been trying out various methods of cleaning the gearbox casing. It was incredably filthy. So far Gunk followed by Aliclean is showing the best results, soda blasting did nothing (perhaps my compressor is not man enough.) I've found a mobile magic welder to sort my chassis leg corrosion. Recommended by a friend who is restoring a Healey 3000.
I've tried a vibratory tumble cleaner on odd bits, niente. I will try a different media, cat litter is useless.
My cat to exhaust header bolts were fully siezed after 6 months (supplied by Fabspeed). So I'm going for stainless bolts with antisieze nuts from Heritage, time will tell. I've found no definative solution to that problem.
Engine tin is off for powder coating and I'm collecting bits for plating.
Next step is remove plugs and endoscope the bores.
Many moons ago an orthopeodic registrar friend brought his endoscope round (normally used for knees) to look inside my MGA Twin Cam engine he also took it to Aston Martin. I wonder if any patients ever realised it's provenance.
 
Great work John progressing nicely, I spent a couple of months at the end of last year cleaning my engine which was also thick with gunk, I used Jizer in a spray bottle for the most part to clean it off.

Here's what I attacked:
1y449RW.jpg


Ended up with:
R236KYK.jpg


It really does take time, replaced all the rubber components I could including the oil bridge seal, but I'm under no illusion that I've got all leaks until I go for a full rebuild in the future.

I had a leak from my bottom most Varioram actuator on the inlet, the one that sits at the bottom, changed a few seals in there too, not an issue for you I know :).

Problem with the gearbox case is they're usually full of cosmoline, not sure if you're looking to remove that?, but it can be a pain for sure. Generally needs a good scraping, my box needed a new bell housing casing so looked good, the other two sections were just jet washed at Unit 11 when they rebuilt it. I'm guessing you have a G50/21?

I fitted the goldenrod and it now feels good from within the car and I can seemingly get all gears.

So what's the deal John if you find bore wear are you going for full rebuild?,

Trev
 
I would love to fit 3.8 P&Cs but I don't think it will be neccessary yet.
Front pulley if off so that expensive tool will probably never be used again.
Front oil seal is weeping so that's a must.
The welder arrived this evening and he will do the job in situ.
He wants me to drop the rear subframes to give a bit more room.
I bought a vibratory tumbler and it's doing well cleaning up the bolts and washers before plating. Plastic media and liquid from Frost.
There was a lot of crud behind the pulley, very litle cosmoline left on gearbox it was mainly oil sludge and oxidation.
Bad leak from rear cam housing lid new o-ring required. #8 and 9 on the PET
Not sure what it's funtion is, it's only on one side but needs to be removed to get the rear engine tin off.
 

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New cam lid fitted and coated with ACF50 as recommended. I used some Molycote on the seal and flange. Didn't bother drilling out the fractured bolt as I found a nice one in the States with a design change and a new Norma stainless P-clip.
I removed the inlet manifold to get at the resonance flap seal.
I should have left changeing the plug leads til now would have been much easier.
 

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When I dropped the oil I found a small (2mm) sharp flattened piece of steel attached to the magnet. I opened up the oil filters which were clear. The large filter had fallen apart internally which I thought would have caused the horrible noises at startup, a bit more than the usual gurgling, they disappeared after a few minutes.
The safety oil pressure relief valve has an obvious leak so today I pulled the spring out and found the source of the metal fragment (I hope) the end oil the sping was missing a small fragment which matched up perfectly with the metal shard. The spring also measures 67mm, should be 70mm. So it's a bit tired as well. Only £3 plus a new washer. It only operates when the oil is cold and thick (10/40) but in my case probably blowing off a bit early.
 
Yes quite a few jobs to do yet but reassembly has started. All the parts I need are here or on order. I will put the engine and gearbox back in less manifolds and then the suspension components. I'm still waiting for the mobile welder to sort out the chassis. A lot of cleaning, checking and protection to do.
 

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Serpentine kit is on, flywheel is off. I used a VW flywheel lock modified to fit.
RMS perfect so it can stay put, just wasted an hour checking it.
 

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Endoman said:
Serpentine kit is on, flywheel is off. I used a VW flywheel lock modified to fit.
RMS perfect so it can stay put, just wasted an hour checking it.

That looks very smart. What does it do?
 
tyinsky said:
Endoman said:
Serpentine kit is on, flywheel is off. I used a VW flywheel lock modified to fit.
RMS perfect so it can stay put, just wasted an hour checking it.

That looks very smart. What does it do?
It is a copy of the system fitted to racing RS's which had a habit of throwing the standard belt. Same ratio as the RS hub conversion but at about 10x the cost unfortunately. It's just bling for a road car. I am under no illusions, my crank pulley was damaged (my fault) so cost wise it was a no brainer. No slip, tension automatic.
 
Got the bits back from powder coating, the engine tin and wing stays came out fine. Not so good with the aluminium suspension components. I asked for silver grey and they did them white, they look awful. It's so thick I can't get a bolt through the mounting points. I will try to clean out the bolt holes with chemical stripper first and overpaint the coating, failing that it will be back to the powder coaters. Wish I hadn't done it, a simple blast and spray with clear lacquer would have been better. You can't get the nasty but effective stripper easily. I'm so depressed. :nooo:
 

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