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The Finn's 997 4S progress thread - GT3 RS Wheels

once all of the internal fixing are removed i dropped the bonnet and moved to the fixings on the outside. As you will see from the photos there is only the wipers, two 10mm bolts under the covers and a tx screw in the middle of the scuttle under the wiper
 

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Once you have done all of these steps the scuttle is now free and can be removed. I don't have a photo of this because you need both hands but basically you will need to pull the scuttle free but to do so i you will just have to keep maneuvering it with the bonnet up and down to get it free. Just mind your paint or any cables that might catch.

Once it was out i gave everything a good hoover and clean as there is quite a lot of silt and other rubbish under there and its the best chance of getting to it. Here you can see once it was all clean.
 

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Then i finally moved onto the actual job that i was undertaking which i was skeptical about working but also didn't want to damage the scuttle but anyway i was ready with the heat gun.

This turned out to be relatively easy just going over the scuttle trying not to heat it too much to bubble the plastic. I found that if i got some heat into a larger area first then went back over again with more heat then the finish came back. I was a bit worried at first but after the first part there was no issue and when you are doing it you can see the colour instantly change from white back to black and that area is done so move on.

I did flip the scuttle around a few times to make sure that i got into all areas with the heat.
 

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once the scuttle was treated i just put everything back together in the reverse process, oh and i forgot that i also tided that cables to CTEK that i had previously installed, cable tyng them in a couple of places that i could now get to as the scuttle was removed.

As you can see the scuttle looks much better than before, i wouldn't say it was perfect but it really makes a difference and a worth while job that only took a couple of hours including a good clean.
 

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Very nice job on the scuttle panel, when I pulled mine I just decided to get it hydro-dipped in carbon along with some of the frunk panels, just so I would never have to pull it again, but it is nice to get in there and give it a good clean :D
 
nikos525 said:
Very nice job on the scuttle panel, when I pulled mine I just decided to get it hydro-dipped in carbon along with some of the frunk panels, just so I would never have to pull it again, but it is nice to get in there and give it a good clean :D

I had the same panels dipped as well on my old car but it's a different theme this time. It's dangerous reading Phil's mods from his gen 1 :floor:
 
I just found a pic of everything I had dipped.
 

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Nik nice to see that mate , did you do the side bits and bottom section by the lock as well. I also brought a the bonnet under panel from lidliners in the states and had that dipped. oh yes and the plain matt airbox got a facelift as well :grin: :grin: :grin:
 

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Phil, when I spoke to my dipping guy he advised me against getting the side and bottom bits dipped as he said they are more flexible and prone to cracking so he didn't want to do it, how did yours hold up?

I've had these on the car for over 2 years and still holding up well though :thumbs:
 
nikos525 said:
Phil, when I spoke to my dipping guy he advised me against getting the side and bottom bits dipped as he said they are more flexible and prone to cracking so he didn't want to do it, how did yours hold up?

I've had these on the car for over 2 years and still holding up well though :thumbs:

I had them done as well but it did start to peel around the frunk handle release so you were probably best leaving it to just the top sections
 
nikos525 said:
Phil, when I spoke to my dipping guy he advised me against getting the side and bottom bits dipped as he said they are more flexible and prone to cracking so he didn't want to do it, how did yours hold up?

I've had these on the car for over 2 years and still holding up well though :thumbs:

mine were fine but as you can see from the pics we masked the soft rubber section as your correct my guys also said it would crack . Saw my old car at simply porsche and the carbon dipped bits were still good :thumb: the headlight surround is actual carbon not dip :thumb:
 
So like John997 i was not too happy with the positioning of the O2 sensors on my Topgear cats meaning that you have to connect them on the wrong side, so him an i have been chatting quite a bit about getting them extended. As you will see above John did most if not all of the upfront work and found the connectors to make up the cables which he made up in the photos above so fair play to him on a great solution and sharing the info with me. But going on from that i wanted to find a way to make the connections shorted and also wanted to running the wiring lower down in the engine bay i found my route an made my cables. As one of other members suggested i also found rubber boots to fit over one end of the connectors, which i attached to the connector that would be mounted lower down in the engine bay as this has a slight chance of getting wet, even though the connectors and grommets that make them up are waterproof anyway this reduces the risk again. I didn't put boots on the other end that connects back to the connector in the original location behind the light cluster as the original ones don't have them plus in the next slide you will see why you cant install them anyway.
 

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So in this slide you will see the route i have chosen to install the extension cables which were just under 400mm long. If i were making them again i think that i would make them slightly longer as the rubber boot took up some of the slack in the cable when you bend it back on itself so exactly 400mm end to end should be perfect if you want to follow the route i took.

As you will see in the photos i wanted to run the cables along the back of the plate that mounts the engine to its mounts as this is as close to the original locations as possible but i needed a clip to hold the wiring in place. I found these Brit clips aka cable run clips that i bought from CEF an electrical suppliers which are normally used to hammer onto a beam flange to take wiring in a commercial building, but also proved perfect to push onto the flange of the mount. I did have to open them slightly with a screwdriver to get them on as i couldn't / didn't want to start smashing a hammer around in the engine bay but they fitted perfectly and hold the cables nicely.
 

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The next part of plan was to mount the extension connector and the O2 connector to the brackets at the top of the plate that are only there to taker the wiring for the normal O2 sensor location anyway. I have done this buy wrapping a cable tie around them as you will see in the photos. One side does look a bit tidier than the other as i am not to keen on the cross over on the RHS but i couldn't get the access i wanted to fix them any other way in the time i had as it was getting late, so next time i have the bumper off i might try and change this.

Once these were mounted the extension cable then simply runs along and clips into the original plastic brackets as the OEM cabling does and connects onto the original connector, this is why you can't have the cable boot on this end as this is too big to clip into the brackets. Once the airbox is back in you cant see any difference to the OEM set up running the cables in this location as i have.
 

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