Moist hose - coolant

PGD · 19 Jul 2018

Hi guys,

I just noticed this replacement kit - is that all I need?

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod138378/Radiator-pipes-replacement-kit-Porsche-997-Gen-2/

Is the part that need the subframe dropping Number 2?

Phil 997 · 19 Jul 2018

that is the whole kit mate , Iain is the best person to tell you which parts require the sub dropping as he's a porsche tech :thumb: :thumb:

deMort · 19 Jul 2018

Stuff me i didnt know there was a kit .. our poor parts guy has to order every part individually !

Youll probably need the brackets and bolts so 7 and 11 and the same for the opposite side.

The bolts sieze in the subframe and snap off , its a hammer and punch time to get it all out .

For me i use something called Porsche White Grease , i smear some on all the rubber seals on the pipes .. 2 reasons .. a bit of lub helps it fit and it also helps seal it .
Mfg Part #
00004320468

You cant change them parts with out dropping the subframe so not just number 2.

Undo the rack bolts , undo the frame bolts and let it hang on the coffin arms .. youll have to tilt it a bit .. on a ramp and its not a hard job but not an easy one .. competent diy i would rate it as .

I will say that plenty of waxoil or ..AC50 ? its mentioned on the forums but i dont know it .. well plenty of either over all the metal parts .. you get a good coating and your set for 10 years plus without any leaks .

EDIT .. just to say take a picture of the pipes with the frame dropped and once you remove them ..

You assemble them on the floor all together and fit as one unit .. its supriseing how quick you can forget how to assemble them after you have just taken them appart !!

White lines line up btw

PGD · 19 Jul 2018

Fantastic advice, this is great. Thanks guys

I'm thinking of going for the full kit, as the other side doesn't look far off breaking.

Now, while the front is off do I drop some new AC rads in as the air con doesn't work either. Though I haven't pinpointed the fault to be the rads, it just seems pretty likely.

Also, I want to add some Grills to protect from further debris. But I was thinking of adding mesh behind the cutouts, as opposed to those grills which fit into them. I think I have some mesh in the garage which would be perfect for the job. Not quite sure how I'll attach it yet mind!

Phil 997 · 20 Jul 2018

duel post

c:

Phil 997 · 20 Jul 2018

PGD said:
Fantastic advice, this is great. Thanks guys

I'm thinking of going for the full kit, as the other side doesn't look far off breaking.

Now, while the front is off do I drop some new AC rads in as the air con doesn't work either. Though I haven't pinpointed the fault to be the rads, it just seems pretty likely.

Also, I want to add some Grills to protect from further debris. But I was thinking of adding mesh behind the cutouts, as opposed to those grills which fit into them. I think I have some mesh in the garage which would be perfect for the job. Not quite sure how I'll attach it yet mind!

Before you buy Rads for the AC and have already dropped the chassis , see if you can get ubder the car get the under trays off and have a look at the ac pipes running under the car , there are three potential places where it will be leaking 1/as you say one or both rads , quite straight forward to replace , 2 one or both straigh pipes running under the car , quite cheap for parts and quite easy to do 3/ split where the pipes running under the car go up over the rear axle into the engine bay , parts are quite cheap but traditionally this is an engine drop to do the job so 8 hrs labour but recently there have been discussions with guys who are looking to get a piece of custom flexipipe to fit in there this would negate having to drop the engine.
re the grilles
options are the zunsport front fitting ones not my favourite but are functional
or as your planning custon made DIY grilles this looks better IMO heres a thread to read about ensuring the mesh is not restricting airflow by having too tight a pattern and also what/how to fix in place

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/651055-mesh-grills-for-gts.html

dont forget the 5% discount for forum members from Design 911

911uk forum members discount code for design 911 is 911uk09 or PCGB005 also works
:thumb: :thumb:

PGD · 20 Jul 2018

Phil 997 said:
3/ split where the pipes running under the car go up over the rear axle into the engine bay , parts are quite cheap but traditionally this is an engine drop to do the job so 8 hrs labour but recently there have been discussions with guys who are looking to get a piece of custom flexipipe to fit in there this would negate having to drop the engine.

What's betting it's those that's the problem then. Esp as I've hosed the engine a little from in the wheel arches and seen the water go slightly green :frustrated:

Is this flexipipe available to buy yet?

Great post on the mesh, that's just what I had in mind and the mesh I have has larger holes than his, so no problem with airflow. However it will of course let very small debris in. Still far better than nothing!

Thanks for the discount codes too. I hadn't seen those yet :thumb:

PGD · 25 Jul 2018

Hi again gents..

Thinking aloud for a moment.

Does this rear rubber hose have plastic inside or anything else?

I've just put our cooling system together on the kit car, and a thought ran through my mind which won't appeal to the purists... the thought was, could I simply cut this joint out, and replace it with some good quality aftermarket hose like Samco?

So basically cut the end of the rubber hose off, use a pipe joiner to connect the new hose to it. Cut the end of the ally pipe off and slip the new hose over that. Clamp up.

It seems like a botch on a porsche, yet modified and kit car systems are made up entirely like this.

Phil 997 · 25 Jul 2018

I cant answer that , if it can be done its a good solution but best get the thoughts of a tech etc like DeMort or someone thats done that :thumb: I cant see it being that different to the flexihose option that I mentioned before it might need to be braided or something . I look forward to seeing what thoughts your given . :thumb:

deMort · 25 Jul 2018

The hose end looks like the image below , ally end with a rubber seal .

The problem is if the ally pipe it goes into has corroded .. thats normally were the money is in replacing that... and as that seems to be the engine one by the gearbox then its an engine out job so circa 8 hrs labour .

The rubber pipes them selves would be some thing like £20 at a guess.

Inside the pipe and its just a normal rubber hose.

From your image then the ally pipe looks to be corroded , if you can get the rubber pipe out and that pipe is not corroded all the way through then just a new rubber pipe is needed .. and a lot of waxoil !

PGD · 31 Jul 2018

I see what you mean about the pipe brackets being required deMort, mines only a few steps away from dust! I'll oder those and the bolts for both sides as you suggest.

I've got all the undertrays off for inspection now, and it's really quite clean under there. No big piles of crap like I was expecting. So that's good.

Several of the hoses look to be on the brink of leaking on the front, so I'm going to order the kit and replace the lot.

Here's what I was thinking about earlier, regarding cutting the bad joint out at the back. This method eliminates the need to drop the engine just to replace one pipe:

What do you think to this approach?

deMort · 31 Jul 2018

I like the idea young man .. it will save you taking the engine out thats for sure ..

The only problem i see is on all coolant pipes there is a lip on the metal pipe , the jubilee clip sits just behind this and it helps lock the rubber pipe in place.

You will have just a straight piece of metal with no lip .. hmm .. i think if it was me i would use x2 jubilee clips at each end to increase the clamp force and stop slippage of the pipe over time .

PGD · 31 Jul 2018

Yes, I thought the same about the lip, and doubling up clamps on that end. The hose joiner will have a lip, that'll go between the new hose and old hose end.

Thanks for that :thumb:

Andy0 · 13 Dec 2019

Has anyone done this?

This 'bodge' makes sense to me, certainly until such time as a job requiring engine removal takes place. Had anyone done this at all?

deMort · 13 Dec 2019

I assume the OP did .

For me i wouldn't be happy unless i could have a lip on the joiner tube to make sure the pipe wont blow off .. you can't flare the existing pipe though , other than that it's a perfectly good solution and would last indefinitely ... access is often the problem with things like this though .

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