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996 suspension arm options, monoballs?

M

MisterCorn

Fuji
Joined
8 Jan 2011
Messages
9,410
I am changing all of the suspension on my C4, it will be running GT3 shock absorbers and springs with C2 front hubs. I am looking at options for bottom arms, toe control arms, and upper and lower control arms. Basically all of it.

I have seen monoballs inserts sold for the standard arms, so I could fit those for the top arms, but was thinking of going for GT3 bottom arms. Any suggestions welcome, it seems many companies are based in the US and I don't know what the quality is like.

I will most likely to with Porsche front monoball top mounts, but what about the rear ones?

MC
 
I've been fully monoballed for the last 8 years, so this is my experience:

Rear dogbones & front steering arms - GMG, the best for quality IMO

https://shop.gmgracing.com/collections/all/Porsche-911-GT3-(996-2)-2004

I tried the monoball inserts in the standard arms but TBH, they don't make a huge difference over urethane bushes. I now use the RSS bottom arms all round; the quality & added strength is a bonus, but the real benefit is they can be rebuilt - the outer bearings are what wears out, the inners last years. You'll also get the benefit of split arms, which will make setting more camber much easier.

Rear top mounts can be left standard. I have Moton monoball mounts all round because I have to but the rear monoballs have never needed changing, unlike the fronts which last about 30K miles.

Rear toe arms are the best single upgrade because rear toe is so critical and the standard toe adjusters are really not a good design. Use locking plates and the Motorsport toe arms and toe doesn't move from year to year. The other toe arms on the market are nowhere near as strong as the genuine Porsche Motorsport arms & it is a very heavily loaded component so not something to compromise on.

The most important thing is to source rubber boots to protect the monoballs from the elements. Also, don't lubricate the monoballs with anything, it breaks down the PTFE bearing insert.
 
Thanks Nick. Top info. Time to dust off the wallet.

MC
 
I'm shortly going to be making up a batch of rear toe arms, so if you would like a set then let me know. If I were buying from someone on this forum then the first person I would ask if maximum quality and design features were a consideration is CLR. If you would like something less good, but still very functional, then you may want to consider mine.
Because I have limited funds available, I'm making some of my own toe arms in the Cup style, that use a steering arm end and a top quality rod end at the other end, with a stainless steel turnbuckle in the middle. I'm doing a batch of three sets in order to try to make it cost neutral for me, but price-wise they will be in the £150-200 bracket. Let me know if you're interested.
 
Martin996RSR said:
I'm shortly going to be making up a batch of rear toe arms, so if you would like a set then let me know. If I were buying from someone on this forum then the first person I would ask if maximum quality and design features were a consideration is CLR. If you would like something less good, but still very functional, then you may want to consider mine.
Because I have limited funds available, I'm making some of my own toe arms in the Cup style, that use a steering arm end and a top quality rod end at the other end, with a stainless steel turnbuckle in the middle. I'm doing a batch of three sets in order to try to make it cost neutral for me, but price-wise they will be in the £150-200 bracket. Let me know if you're interested.
Click to expand...

They sound like an excellent idea. If the steering arms are good enough to control the front end I guess they should be good enough for the rears. This is really just a 'bit of fun' project, not some big budget race car, so price is in my mind as well as functionality, as you will realise when you see my brakes :) Please put me down for a set.

MC
 
MisterCorn said:
They sound like an excellent idea. If the steering arms are good enough to control the front end I guess they should be good enough for the rears. This is really just a 'bit of fun' project, not some big budget race car, so price is in my mind as well as functionality, as you will realise when you see my brakes :) Please put me down for a set.

MC
Click to expand...

This is an entirely incorrect assumption. The steering isn't subjected to anything like the same forces as the rear toe arm. I was at Spa several years ago when the standard rear toe arm let go (as in actually broke in 2) on a 997 GT2 and put him into the barrier at 120mph. It wasn't pretty & cost £81K to put the car right again. I can't stress enough what a safety-critical component it is; chose carefully.
 
Thanks Nick,
I saw a pair of motorsport parts going on the back of a car last time I was at Fearnsport and they did look like a solid job. I'll have to do more reading on the subject before I do anything either way I think. At least I know what parts to get for the rest of it.

MC
 
Just to be clear; my rear toe arms are not going to be breaking any new ground. They're similar to the ones supplied by Porsche for their GT3 Cup cars and similar to the Tarret product and many others. If Mistercorn is building a mostly road oriented C4, then the forces it's going to generate are not likely to come close to a 997 GT2 on a track.

They look like this:
996TLNK.jpg
 
Martin996RSR said:
Just to be clear; my rear toe arms are not going to be breaking any new ground. They're similar to the ones supplied by Porsche for their GT3 Cup cars and similar to the Tarret product and many others. If Mistercorn is building a mostly road oriented C4, then the forces it's going to generate are not likely to come close to a 997 GT2 on a track.
Click to expand...

Those are the old 996 Cup arm design. The current motorsport toe arms look like this and are easily rebuildable:
 

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I've seen that newer design, and I agree it has advantages, but the down side is needing to get a conical pin or tube machined to fit the hole in the wheel carrier, plus getting the turnbuckle made in the correct length. It's simply more cost effective to go with the older design.
 
I guess my point is that Porsche modified the design away from something that was easier & no doubt cheaper to manufacture for a reason. The new design is stronger, fully serviceable & can also be adjusted to eliminate bump steer.

I'm not saying your design isn't up to the job, just pointing out that Porsche have now moved away from it.
 
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