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C4 springs - how much disassembly?

Griffter

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Joined
22 May 2016
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696
Is it possible to remove and refit C4 springs without removing the suspension strut?
Some online how-to's suggest suggest disconnecting the strut from the top mount, leaving the top mount in place, then lowering the hub carrier on a jack, possibly needing to disconnect the drop link and loosen the lower suspension arm bolt (to overcome the resilience of the rubber bush) will allow the strut to drop low enough to 'unscrew' the spring and remove it.
At this point opinions diverge and it's not always clear what the author means (or whether they're referring to C4 or C2) but I can imagine lifting the spring off its perch and manipulating the coils around the damper rod (which I think is what they mean by 'unscrewing) to remove it. Presumably you could compress the damper rod to assist.
Is it possible? If I remove my springs I want to avoid disturbing as much of the suspension as possible given the nightmare of seizures most people seem to experience.
I also spoke to an OPC technician who said he could get M030 springs out without removing the strut, but he implied the use of lots of levers. It sounded brutal! And we didn't go into detail.
 
Griffter said:
I also spoke to an OPC technician who said he could get M030 springs out without removing the strut, but he implied the use of lots of levers. It sounded brutal! And we didn't go into detail.

Last weekend I removed my M030 springs without removing the strut. No levers, just used my foot to push the hub down a little. You do need to release the ARB so that you're not fighting the other side.

Mine's a C2 - I realise it's slightly different to the C4 - but I can't imagine it's radically different.

Also, not keen on that plan of using the weight of the car in lieu of spring compressors...
 
I'm swapping my springs this weekend so i'm keen on trying this way.

Is there a link to the guide?
 
Thanks, yes the Pelican Parts one was the best one I'd found.

It doesn't look like too much more work to do it 'properly' plus I think it's a good idea to at least inspect and re grease the top mount so that's what I'll be doing.
 
Grey996 said:
Thanks, yes the Pelican Parts one was the best one I'd found.

It doesn't look like too much more work to do it 'properly' plus I think it's a good idea to at least inspect and re grease the top mount so that's what I'll be doing.

On reflection I agree. I just want minimise disassembly as I want to avoid cutting/drilling/tapping if at all possible.
 
I would plan on a total stripdown. I've just done mine on a C4. Even with a massive impact gun, heat and pullers I couldnt shift 4 connections - all on the drivers side on a 103k mile 2000MY car..

1 - shock top bolt
2 - strut clamp bolt seized in hub
3 - tuning fork to coffin arm
4 - shock stuck in top mount

i needed to take the whole suspension assembly to a friendly indy and he got some away with oxyacetylene and I got others in a vice with a 3ft breaker. Also someone had drilled the disc screws before.

All parts were original so a refresh should do another 100k once done!!

Guy
 
Thanks Guy.

1 surprises me cos it's clean and dry up there.

2 is the one that really worries me. Bi-metallic corrosion and the shock's not coming out without that bolt coming loose.

I think I'm going to have a go when I've got time to take my time. I don't have heavy tools and heat though so we'll see how far I get.
 

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