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Dodgy PSE actuator success story! DIY for the win!

Robertb said:
I would keep it switched off for the time being, just to be on the safe side. Do the 987s default to open or closed?

I have times when I am not convinced mine is working as it should (sometimes seems loud even in quiet mode!)... one of those jobs to do as I suspect it needs a good clean up and lube.

On the 987/997 era, the PSE defaults to off obviously (except for the first 2 seconds you start the car and there's no vacuum) and the butterfly is closed by the actuator being held under vacuum.

I would then always press 'Sports' and in doing so engage the PSE. When this happens, the system stops producing vacuum and the actuators and butterfly valve default to open.

If that all makes sense?
 
p.s. John at Tower said don't lube up the ball joint, the extreme temps would only serve to bake the lubricant and make for problems.
 
The return of Marty Wild said:
p.s. John at Tower said don't lube up the ball joint, the extreme temps would only serve to bake the lubricant and make for problems.

Oops... too late... gave it all a liberal squirt of GT85 and spray grease a while ago! :oops:

That said, the exhaust surely can't be hotter than the inside of the engine, and the oil in that copes ok.
 
Yeah, I don't know what the best advice is on that one.
 
Matee from TopGear never got back to me.

I'm going to my mate's workshop tomorrow to get to work at fixing the current actuators.

Will drop the rear PU and heatshield and go from there.
 
Got over to my mate's workshop, his B7 RS4 Resto was in situ on his ramp.

So we got to work on the car with the back end stuck through into the workshop through the smaller gate, to get it out of the rain.

We took the fin off in order to allow the rear bumper to be removed. Then removed the light assemblies. Undid all the nuts and bolts, the one in each arch being the toughest to get to with the car sat on its suspension.

YT vid on bumper removal found here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eu5QvzDAbaE

Removed the PU and the metal bumper bar behind it, being careful of the wire loom for the reversing sensors/numberplate bulbs. Next we removed the lower parts of the wheel arch lining as they are attached to the heat shield in each corner. We left the middle stretch of HS in place.

We then had access to the actuators. The rod had sheered on one, queue my mate getting handy with the welder once we had disconnected the battery. The other had become stuck due to the ball joint cup having a load of gunk in it. We cleaned all the parts up and left them sparkling. Reconnected that battery, woke the car up as per Demort's instruction. Both actuators now working perfectly.

I then cleaned up all areas that had now been exposed, gave the wheel arch liners and the HS a good going over. Cleaned the nooks and crannies on the PU and car panelling.

We then put everything back, ran the car down the road to remove the PSM error warning. Then stuck it on PIWIS for good measure, no faults =)
 
To say I am chuffed is an understatement, my local indie were only willing to put a new silencer in there, part alone was a grand I think.

OPC Cambridge were unaware the Cayman came with PSE as an option! FFS!

So in short, we fixed it without spending a penny and gave many areas of the car a thorough clean up.
 
Thanks, Demort, figured the mods would help. I have some pics to put up too!
 
Post the pictures as this is a walk through for other people .. ive asked that it be moved to the right place for something like this :)


EDIT ..

I didnt even know you had posted about this !!
 
Here are the pics... apologies the order is backwards. The photos don't do justice to just how dirty the arch liners were, on both sides too.
 

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Cheers, Marky. Job satisfaction at saving all that cash whilst cleaning parts/areas that your run of the mill OPC wouldn't even touch, is second to none.
 
Nice work Marty!

Very satisfying job I'm sure.

Did the ball joint pop off relatively easily to clean up?
 

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