Quick update:
Not spoken to Hartech re the full picture yet, will call tomorrow. In the meantime I have been:
1.) Cleaning everything that came off the engine, and reassembling again.
2.) Replacing the alternator voltage regulator. I had a slow parasitic drain which discharged a full battery over about a week, and the charging voltage would drop down after initially showing 14 + Volts. (Though this may be normal?)
3.) Partially dis-assemble the starter motor to spray grease onto the internal gears (The starter cranked veerrrry slooowwly when the engine was hot) This may cure it, but I have also cleaned off the electrical contacts and tested resistance of the starter leads. All looks OK, but I may put additional new leads in parallel with the old ones to assist electrical conductivity. There is a junction box in the engine bay tucked away in the top of the transmission tunnel. When opened up, it looked like this:
Sorry, not the best pic. but shows the corrosion, and where its situated.....here:
4.) Other rusty parts to tackle are the transmission carrier bracket. I didn't take a picture before, but rest assured it wasn't pretty, and took some serious work with a drill and wire brush to clean it.
I have used POR15 previously, and while I liked it, it was a pain to clean the brushes. The process of using "metal prep" beforehand, and then having to top coat it was a pain as well. Instead, I have been trying/using Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 rust converter. Initial thoughts are that although you have to completely clean all the oxide away down to bare (pitted) metal. It goes on easily. dries quickly. You can wash the brushes in soap and water. It can be overcoated in 24 hours. It promises good results. We will see!
There are areas of the engine bay that need attention while I can get access. Thi it top of the transmission tunnel where it meets the engine bay:
Exhaust brackets need some corrective work:
Lastly, I spent a morning tidying up the inner welds on the "Direnza" Stainless Steel exhaust manifolds I have bought to replace the originals, which Hartech had to prise off. Every one of the 12 bolts snapped in the heads apparently....
I just wanted to minimise any exhaust port to manifold downstream mismatch that might affect the efficiency and flow of gases leaving the engine. The left manifold needed a fair bit of grinding, but the right side appeared better made. Different person making each maybe?
Other purchases have been a new fuel filter and stainless steel manifold studs, stainless spring washers and brass nuts.
The oil filter tube has snapped. A new one is £38 +Vat!!!! I have bought a new O ring, and will fix the tube with heat shrink rubber tubing. Total cost £6. Fuel rails have been sorted on previous occasion, so they are good to go.
Cheers