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Brake pad change... anti-squeal shims?

Robertb

Yas Marina
Joined
1 Sep 2003
Messages
8,406
Got some new pads to replace the rears on my 4S, but have not bought any anti-squeal shims...

Can I reuse the shims that are there? Keen to do so if possible as they are an astonishing £9 a piece from ECP and I presumably need 8...
 
If they clean up ok they can be reused. Ideally the backs should be sticky and adhere to the backs of the pad
 
I have used 3Mâ„¢ Ultra High Temperature Adhesive Transfer Tape , with success previously when I couldn't get a full set of ant-squeal shims in time for a project.
It worked absolutely fine and , if I remember correctly were available from a company called Viking.
Biggest hassle was getting the old adhesive off the shims.
 
Asked this the other day on the 997 section. The general consensus was they don't need doing every time.

The other thing that came up is copper slip is now no longer the preferred option. Use Ceratech also available from ECP instead, far superior.
 
Excellent, thank you. Will get hold of some high-temp adhesive and Ceratec.
 
Cheers Wasz
 
28 mm or 30 mm

Ive ordered rear discs and pads for my C4S do I need 28 mm or 30 mm anti squeal shims ,thanks Noel
 
Re: 28 mm or 30 mm

noel993 said:
Ive ordered rear discs and pads for my C4S do I need 28 mm or 30 mm anti squeal shims ,thanks Noel

I'll let you know as I'm doing my pads tomorrow...
 
OK, did my rear pads today.

I reused the shims/damping pads. They came off easily with a stanley knife, and were still a bit sticky so I did not use any adhesive, but actually one set had become detached anyway, and there is in my opinion enough pressure on the pad and damping pads even brakes off to render the adhesive un-necessary. All was quiet when I took it out for a test-drive...

If you feel the need to order any damping pads, then the 4S uses the two sizes of shims, four of each for per caliper. I think its the same for the NB cars. Given what they are, the cost is scandalous so see if you can reuse yours and save around £70-£80 per axle!

The pad change was straightforward- the hardest bit actually was getting the retaining bar out as it needed quite a wallop with a hammer and punch and I was afraid of chipping my caliper! Getting it back in was fiddly too, as you need to press down on the retaining spring to allow the bar back in. Make sure the cotter-pin hole is uppermost too...

I ended up whipping the caliper off as it was the only way of removing one of the old pads which still had the sticky shims attached, and it was also easier to refit the shims with the caliper off, so have a 10mm hex key handy.
 
Careful whacking the pins with a hammer, they are steel and can break/ crack the caliper where they pass through if you hit them hard.

Better to scrape as much dust and rust off and work them round with mole grips and penetrating oil, giving them a tap with a punch.

If well stuck cut them and get new from dealer or cheap from rockauto.
 
and put some copper slip on the pins as you reassemble to make it easier next time....
 
Yes, I put a coating of Ceratec on the pins when I reassembled.

I reckon the pins would have gone out much easier if I'd had a volunteer to hold the retaining clip down. Once I'd got the hang of it the other caliper was much easier. It was also easier using the biggest punch I could find, which was only slightly smaller in diameter than the pin.
 
Job satisfaction right there :)
 
Robertb said:
Yes, I put a coating of Ceratec on the pins when I reassembled.

I reckon the pins would have gone out much easier if I'd had a volunteer to hold the retaining clip down. Once I'd got the hang of it the other caliper was much easier. It was also easier using the biggest punch I could find, which was only slightly smaller in diameter than the pin.

Yes, I bought a set of long punches when I needed to replace the door on mum's old Astra. They've been useful on a number of jobs since, having the right size really makes a difference and they're quite cheap.
 

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