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Valve adjustment/clearances DIY?

Wow, doing this is a abdominal work out, would be much nicer if it was high up on a ramp and I could stand. I see why the 90 degree feeler gauge is required also, I'm half way through the job as I've been sidetracked by cleaning up some of the removed parts but out of the 4 valves I've checked, only 1 needed minor adjustment.

I some how, got 5 litres out of the engine by undoing one of the lower cam covers and then realising there is a ***** ton of oil, undone the engine drain plug. In total I got just over 5 litres from here alone, I am yet to drain the oil tank.

It hasn't been started for approx 3-4 weeks now.

My car has original Porsche plugs so I'm going to replace with the same for piece of mind.

However, the tips being white normally means it's running hot, so run a colder plug... umm

25596206797_ee1c026929_c.jpg
 
From your picture most of the plugs are a tan colour which is normal the other 4 are a bit more white, were they from the furthest cylinders from the fan?
All looks OK to me, regarding the oil from the engine over a period of time it does return back to the engine due to gravity. If you'd drained the engine sump after shutting it down there would have been very little.
Next time you'll know to drain all of the oil when it's warm before tackling the valves.
If you've got 5 litres of oil from the engine there will not be a lot in the tank so don't start the engine now until you've done the oil change as you'll be well below minimum level.
Have you had a chance to check the rocker shaft alignment yet? They should be completely centralised on the rocker arm not the cam tower and definitely not protruding from the tower.
Just saying as its not uncommon for the shafts to move laterally.
 
You're correct on the plugs, the whiter ones were further away..

I wasn't planning to change the oil as I didn't know it was meant to be dropped but I have now drained from the oil tank and changed the filter for a nice red purolator.

I estimate approx 8 liters has come out now but I'll know for sure when I empty it into a measuring bottle. I'll refill with new oil and run for a few weeks and then change again to get a full flush.

The rocker shafts were all fine, I checked after you mentioned and all is good. I've now completed the job of checking the clearances and buttoned the engine back up. Only 3 adjustments were needed, 2 too loose and 1 too tight.

Just waiting on some new tin ware and plugs then I can get it back together!

Thanks for your help on this.

A straight forward enough job, just takes some time, mainly the strip down and reassembly!
 
While you are doing some diy an idea on those whilte plugs. Move the cooling fan/alternator slightly and with a torch have a look / feel on top of the rear cylinders to make sure the heads are free of detritus that would hinder cooling. The rears head fins can become blocked over time and its virtually impossible to see a problem with the cooling fan in position.
 
That would make sense..

When I previously had the fan out, I did find a load of junk behind there and under the cowling. Even when doing this job, I found bits of nature in between the cooling fins and in odd places, mainly up top so I think the worst of it is out and I have no idea how long these plugs have been in but that may explain it.

Thanks again for the great tip!
 
It sounds like you've already fixed the most probable cause for those plugs. Its amazing how much junk can build up over the years and it doesn't take much to restrict the airflow across those rear heads and cylinders :thumb:
 
I was amazed at the time, I was thinking it's more of a fire hazard than anything else.

Nice and clean now an the valve job is complete, the car is up and running and sounding lovely.

Addressed a leak from the chain tensioner cap but still got a few from other areas but can't track the source. I hear trying to stop leaks on the 964 is like raising the titantic..
 

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