996 3.4 DIY Clutch & Fly etc turns into mini restoration

Marky911 · 21 Feb 2018

Rear arches and sill inspection is the very next job on my list.

I hope it's good to me.

Gixxer996 · 21 Feb 2018

Good work mate- making a nice job of it :thumbs:

maldren · 22 Feb 2018

wasz said:
Seriously everyone, remove these rear ward plastic covers, check for rust, pop your sill end caps out and douse in cavity wax before its too late!

Agreed, what do people use nowadays, in years gone by, I used Waxoyl but more recently have sprayed Dinitrol cavity wax, is that still the best solution?

I also use ACF50 or XCP as general purpose sprays on exposed parts.

wasz · 23 Feb 2018

maldren said:
wasz said:

Seriously everyone, remove these rear ward plastic covers, check for rust, pop your sill end caps out and douse in cavity wax before its too late!

Click to expand...

Agreed, what do people use nowadays, in years gone by, I used Waxoyl but more recently have sprayed Dinitrol cavity wax, is that still the best solution?

I also use ACF50 or XCP as general purpose sprays on exposed parts.

Dinitrol I hear is the best stuff. Best way to buy is the "kits" no ebay - i.e. a kit for an MX-5 should be enough product for a 996.

However I am no chemist but as far as I understand there isn't much in it - its all in the delivery.

It needs to be held diluted in a solvent to make it REALLY runny so it "wets" out any rust and creeps into seams. Obviously lots of solvent means most of the stuff applied will evaporate, meaning you need to apply plenty.

Waxoyl in tins is old school, is thick and and difficult to apply, I think problems come when the waxoyl is not thinned down or heated up to make it really thin, and then people not applying enough of it. Wayoyl can also crack as it dries out (solvent evaporates) leaving exposed bits.

I have a load of aerosol tins of "M8 Cavity Wax" a mate used on another car that still looks fresh after a few years in is sills not cracked and dried out). It comes out really thin and you can get a good coating.

http://classiccarpaintsdirect.com/shop/underbody-protection/m8-clear-cavity-wax-pack-4-x-500ml/

Its probably as good as dinitrol tbh. (Any) Wax is a natural corrosion inhibitor.

maldren · 23 Feb 2018

Thanks Wasz,
I'll stick with Dinitrol and my air sprayer which will get right into the sills.

IIRC Waxoyl was thick but used to become very thin if you heated it or used it in hot weather.

Mike

wasz · 24 Feb 2018

maldren said:
Thanks Wasz,
I'll stick with Dinitrol and my air sprayer which will get right into the sills.

IIRC Waxoyl was thick but used to become very thin if you heated it or used it in hot weather.

Mike

Thats the best plan, I didn't have access to a compressor / sprayer so used aerosols with long nozzles taped to a garden cane to get right along the sills.

I started from the rear holes as I could then see how far along the sill I sprayed from the big hole in the front.

I got easily far enough to get full coverage of the sill.

So a compressor is not necessarily needed, but the cavity wax is much cheaper by the barrel so worth doing if you have one.

Liberal application of POR-15:

You can see the little brackets I made of aluminium to replace the corroded steel originals, with stainless screws.

The insides of my sills now look like this loads of cavity wax:

All buttoned up:

These I what I used to repair the undertray fixings:

Little stainless cuntersunk bolts. I used the grinder to make some edges for the glue to get into.

I ground the remainder back on the floorpan.

And stuck them on with a 2 part adhesive called BondLoc, cured in 6 minutes:

I finished with some por-15 over the exposed metal, and held the undertray on with nuts and a washer for those points.

Tomorrow is a big day: wheels on and go drive :driving:

wasz · 25 Feb 2018

wasz said:
Tomorrow is a big day: wheels on and go drive :driving:

Hmmm wheels on. clutch works but brake pedal is soft, will have to have a go at bleeding the old school way if I can convince my wife to help.....

infrasilver · 25 Feb 2018

I have an easybleed but much prefer and get better results from someone on the pedal.

Griffter · 26 Feb 2018

infrasilver said:
I have an easybleed but much prefer and get better results from someone on the pedal.

I use the one way valve from an easybleed on the caliper, and pump the pedal rather than using the pressurising system on the master cylinder. That gives me good results and enables one-person operation. Just watch for the valve/pipe work coming off (which makes a mess - check every few pedal pumps) and don't let the level in the master cylinder run too low (ten pumps max between topping up).

wasz · 26 Feb 2018

I just used my gunsons eezibleed kit.

what is this one man valve you speak of?

wasz · 5 Mar 2018

OK I have given up on the brakes, air must be in an awkward spot.

Its going to a local garage for bleeding with their vacuum bleeder.

Since I've ruin out of parental leave they can chuck the new discs and textar pads on too so I can drive the thing at long last.

My neighbour joked I took parental leave to spend quality time with the wrong baby....

Marky911 · 5 Mar 2018

You have a newborn baby too?!

That adds an even bigger element of hero/mad kudos. :grin:

I think you and Thom (the lad welding his sills up) deserve some sort of 911uk DIY award, after working in the snow and everything.

At least the car is moving again eh. Had mine out today and it's nice knowing it's in the best mechanical health it has been in for the last 7 or 8 years at least.

You'll be rewarded with a fantastic red hot summer I'm sure.

wasz · 5 Mar 2018

Marky911 said:
You have a newborn baby too?!

He is 7.5 months now and never been in my 996! I've just been getting the odd weekend afternoon on the 996.

Its frustrating because I just set out to do the clutch, that in itself would have just taken a day or two I reckon. But once its jacked up and the box off there is 10000 other things to attend to on a car of this age.

I can't wait to sell the freelander 2 and get driving the 996 daily again. Missing the salted roads this year won't do it any harm though.

Should drive great, I have all recent suspension (everything, dogbones, forked, coffin, rear track, steering arms, roll bar links and bushes, top mounts) over the last 5 years, and now I will have brand new clutch, fly and brand new brakes.

It will drive like new.

wasz · 9 Mar 2018

Got my car back! Brakes are great.

However the idle is wavering around, starting it was tough as it stopped immediately, has to put some gas on.

Anyone know if the DME adaptation reset works for a 3.4 cable throttle? ignition on for 60 secs and then off for 10 secs. Then a few hard pulls through the gears.

or have I got a vacuum leak.... vacuum at oil cap seems normal.

wasz · 13 Mar 2018

Hmmm Throttle reset didn't do anything.

Car starts then immediately stalls on cold start. Warm start OK.

Add some throttle at cold start and hold it for a few seconds and it will idle.

But it idles high (just over 1000 rpm)

Turn aircon off and it doesn't drop.

Seem to pull well through the gears (no flat spots) and otherwise be fine.

Crank case vacuum is present.

Unplugging maf causes a change in running.

It must be a vacuum leak. The only thing could be AOS connections.... (please no....) or the tiny vacuum pipe I had disturbed that on top, behind the alternator.

Any other ideas?

996 3.4 DIY Clutch & Fly etc turns into mini restoration

Marky911

Portimao

Gixxer996

Silverstone

maldren

Albert Park

wasz

Paul Ricard

maldren

Albert Park

wasz

Paul Ricard

wasz

Paul Ricard

infrasilver

Moderator

Griffter

Hockenheim

wasz

Paul Ricard

wasz

Paul Ricard

Marky911

Portimao

wasz

Paul Ricard

wasz

Paul Ricard

wasz

Paul Ricard

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