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Charging Dampers with Nitrogen - Where?

crash7

Well-known member
Joined
28 May 2011
Messages
831
Does anyone know anywhere, the closer to Berkshire the better, that has the ability to add nitrogen to remote damper canisters?

Cheers
 
Simon Joy
AST & MOTON SUSPENSION UK
Unit 4 Unicorn Business Park,
Whitby Road,
Brislington,
Bristol
BS4 4EX

These guys should be able to help
 
Or Patrick Murphy at Quantum Racing Services, in Sussex.

01798 875199

Great people with superb products.
 
Or anyone with a nitrogen bottle, a 10 bar regulator & a Schrader valve adapter ;)

That'll be me in about 3 weeks :D
 
OP, if you (or anyone else) wants to check / recharge their remote canisters with nitrogen, I now have all the kit required.

It's not really portable, so a visit to my place near J3 of the M40 would be required.

No charge for 911UK members :thumb:
 
NXI - A very generous offer - Thank you Sir!

A question if I may, who do you use to corner weight and geo your track car?
 
crash7 said:
NXI - A very generous offer - Thank you Sir!

A question if I may, who do you use to corner weight and geo your track car?

My goto geo people are Center Gravity, although now that I know what settings suit me / the car / slicks, I have also used Fearnsport for convenience if the car is in there for other works. Fortunately, the geo doesn't drift much over a season unless the monoballs have worn or I've been a bit too aggressive on the kerbs!
 
Cheers, :thumb: I only wish CG was further South! I head up next month, although did consider Fern & Parr but struggled to get info from them.

CG cannot check can pressures hence my initial request, although they have mentioned an alternative possibility, if that fails I may be in contact with cap in hand!
 
Is there any proprietary magic to how much gas is filled or is it relatively straight forward and standard pressures?
 
No magic, standard valve and you fill based on pressure.

I run JRZ and they recommend starting at 250 psi, the operating range is 150 - 350psi dependent on your taste!

Other manufacturers may recommend different pressures.

If you mountain bike its exactly the same as a rear shock, which operate at similar pressures and you fill these with a hand pump! - Which in principle would work for my JRZ's however fresh air is only 80% nitrogen.
 
It very much depends on what it is that you require the gas pressure to do. Beyond around 100psi, it acts as a spring, increasing bump resistance. You need a certain amount of pressure to prevent cavitation of the oil. Running 350psi on anything but a race car is far too high & will result in a bone-jarring ride with zero compliance. As usual, the Americans tend to assume that everyone is driving on very smooth surfaces & their advice doesn't travel over the Atlantic that well. Look at the sort of spring rates they routinely recommend by way of illustration.

My Moton canisters only require 10 bar of pressure (around 150psi) so I'm not really equipped to go beyond this. I can measure up to 12 bar to within 0.1 bar with what I have. Measuring pressure up to 25 bar accurately tends to require very expensive equipment.
 
What kind of pressure do you think is standard in a Nitron Race V3 kit with remote canisters?
 
No idea. Ask Nitron?
 
NXI, you comments on American recommendations strike a chord!

While I am leaching info from you :grin: can you confirm what spring rates you run? And the track/road percentage split of the car.

And in addition assuming the usage of 90% Track / 10% Road (As in driving to the track :D ) - What would you recommend?
 
crash7 said:
NXI, you comments on American recommendations strike a chord!

While I am leaching info from you :grin: can you confirm what spring rates you run? And the track/road percentage split of the car.

And in addition assuming the usage of 90% Track / 10% Road (As in driving to the track :D ) - What would you recommend?

80n/mm front
140n/mm rear

It's really only used as a track car now & rarely does journeys unconnected with its purpose or maintenance - it still did about 12k miles last year though ;)

As I do quite a few foreign trackdays per year, it does rack up the road miles so I'd have thought it's at least 60/40 in favour of road miles.

The ride is, erm, firm but it's not actually all that bad if you set the bump & rebound virtually to the minimum of their range. It's going to be a trade-off on a road car but after trying harder springs on the front, I would say don't go too hard. What I have now is roughly 50% stiffer than standard at each end, along with similarly stiffer ARBs which are also run at their stiffest setting. The car corners pretty flat as a result and means I can run slightly softer springs & still use slicks & road tyres sensibly.

One illustration of the consequence of having too stiff a front spring on road tyres: at Oulton Park I would get into the ABS or lockup coming into Lodge where it's quite bumpy in the braking zone; dropping the rate by 20% cured that completely. It didn't happen on slicks at all...
 

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