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2001 C4 project car

Just a small update, I have removed the wiper motor assembly for cleaning, also to enable me to remove the bracket behind it to give better access to the cover which I need to replace. Just 3 10mm bolts and it is out. Four more bolts required for the bracket behind it. I will probably change the cover sooner rather than later in case the car needs to sit outside. Access is as good as it will get now. I also taped up some more wired under there and removed the lights for cleaning and amberectomy.











MC
 
Having only just caught up on this, I got a heat gun to my scuttle yesterday.

Euphemisms aside, it worked a treat!

Word of warning though - the scuttle softens considerably whilst hot so don't touch it with the gun unless you want a unique design!

:saw:
 
I'll be giving that a go and will report back soon.

Whilst the wiper mechanism is off I thought I would give it a bit of a clean. The wiper pivots run in bushes and are held in my circlips. After cleaning the exterior these were removed and the insides cleaned, regreased, and reassembled.





All of the aluminium parts will get a coating of ACF-50 before it goes back on.

MC
 
Good stuff MC. I fitted the SSK in my 996 but didnt like it so took it out again. Wayne/Kelly had it off me for the 996.
 
Removed the rear seats and belt buckles. The bases of the seats are held in with Velcro and just pull out. To remove the backs the splined bolt on the outside of the edge of the seats is removed.



These are a bit of a strange bolt which I can't think I have seen anywhere else. The base can then be pulled to the side to remove. The buckle bolt has a plastic cover on it which is pretty tight, it just requires a flat screwdriver to get underneath near the clips and careful lever it off. Knowing where the clips are really helps.



The belts themselves will be removed when I take off the rear trim.

I have been looking at roll cages. The Tecquipment one, whilst offering somewhere for harnesses to attach, doesn't appear to add any extra rigidity to he chassis. I am currently leaning towards the Safety Devices 6 point bolt-in cage with single door bars. I want something that isn't too obtrusive, will give somewhere to attach a harness if I go that route, can be removed if needed, and will add to the chassis stiffness. This one seems to tick all of those boxes. Any thoughts or opinions welcome!

MC
 
The new foam for the heater matrix cover has arrived. To ease access to the old one the air con pipe which runs in front of it was removed.




Then the heater pipes clamped and undone, only a small amount of coolant came out.



The old cover was then removed. Whilst I was in here I undid the two screws which hold the heater matrix in place and then released the clip each side so that it can be lifted out for inspection. I have read of these leaking and causing problems so best to check.





The bottom of the matrix looks very good, no signs of any leakage anywhere.




The area where they butyl sealant goes was all cleaned up, ready for it to go back together.



MC
 
Seeing the new and the old next to each other, you can see where the old one had been munched.



Heater matrix refitted and a final clean up before fitting the new foam.



The new foam has a paper backing. As advised I cut a large chunk out of the centre to allow the foam to be fitted, then when in place I removed the paper backing and pressed it down all the way around the edge to make sure it is well stuck.



Not a difficult job to do, the part which takes the longest is just removing all of the parts you need to move to get to it, and cleaning everything up along the way.

MC
 
With the headlight units out I decided to do the amberectomy. I have read various warnings about causing damage to the hole where the bulb goes in, so on the first one I put some damp kitchen towel around this and then covered it in foil. It did the job but it was a bit fiddly, so on the second one I didn't bother and I was just careful. Details have been posted many times before. I used a 50w soldering iron to cut all the way around the middle, then cut a section out at the end and pulled the parts out through the hole. To do the pair of them took me about an hour, the second was a bit faster than the first.






I now need to source some bulbs.

MC
 
My modified battery setup is very nearly finished. The SBS30 battery I want to use has 6mm posts rather than sockets or conventional battery terminals. Despite my efforts I couldn't find any to buy so I bought some 22mm hex and made up a couple.






Unfortunately, despite being made to the dimensions I found published in a few places, the battery clamps don't go down as far as I would like, so I need to get them back on the lathe to take off another 0.5mm or so to get them just right. I have fitted the battery charger connection underneath the terminals so that the battery can be charged even when disconnected.

MC
 
Great job on the M6 pole adaptors MC. For future reference, try this number in ebay: 272564270635 ;)
 
ELA said:
Great job on the M6 pole adaptors MC. For future reference, try this number in ebay: 272564270635 ;)

Thanks, I found a few like that, the issue is that they are the wrong polarity, my battery has an M6 stud on it, not an M6 socket. It worked out cheaper in the end, about £8 for enough bar to make a few sets, and it meant I got to make something.

MC
 
Just a minor update, other bits are happening behind the scenes but nothing worth posting on here. I have upgraded the cigarette lighter socket to a 997 type. The early 996 cars had a larger diameter unit which meant that adapters fell out easily. I read that 997 ones were easy to fit so I ordered a couple. After getting them I then read that the later 996 ones were a different design and would have done the job, they would probably have been a direct drop in replacement as well. Not to worry, job done now.

Pull out the trim just under the cigarette lighter socket to remove it, then pull off the four connectors on the back. The rear of the socket is shown here:



The light and light pipe are held in place with small latches, use a thin screwdriver to pry these out so that they can be removed.



The socket assembly then needs to be rotated a few decrees and it will pull out.

Here you can see the small keyway which is why it needed to be rotated slightly to remove it. This is with the 997 light pipe in place, you can see that they don't quite line up. This was opened up very slightly with a small file and it then all pushes back together with the new socket and light pipe.

Whereas the old light pipe was rounded at the top side, the new one is a little bit squarer and uses an LED instead of a bulb, as a result of that, the hole it fits in in the dashboard needs opening up very slightly near the top with a small file. It really isn't much at all but it won't fit without it.



When that is done the connectors are put back on and it is pushed back in to place.



I now have a correct size socket with a crisp white illumination to it.

Once you figure out how to rotate the socket to remove it from the trim piece the entire job takes about 20 minutes at most.

MC
 

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