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996 3.4 DIY Clutch & Fly etc turns into mini restoration

alex yates said:
Something I'm not looking forward to. As far as I'm aware, the original is still on at 120k. Car doesn't use oil and crank case vac seems right so I just hope it has plenty of life left in it.

Same here, no outward issues but I thought whilst the box is off and access "good" I'll just whip it off. Type 911 does the OE makers AOS for £40 so I thought why not.

My AOS had oil gunk in every port (except coolant ports), so was probably dying. Apparently oil gunk sits on the rubber diaphragm and rots it. Anywhere oil contacts rubber on engines it hardens and dies.

It might well come off / go back on a low mileage car really easy, but like I say I think O rings had hardened making it extra hard to get vac lines off / on. Fairly easy to change the o rings though I guess. You could even just by new vac lines about £50 each).

I perhaps should have dropped the engine a little further, but it as far as I dare.

Much easier with the engine dropped, then you can do all kinds of other little jobs. Sometimes (as with Marky911) the AOS mounting bolts seized up and round off too.... mine were OK.
 
Just got my brake lines out, over box to RH caliper and from join under sill to under LH wing.

Will take them to the motorfactors to get some made up from cunifer. Will also replace the LH rear caliper hardline as the previous specialist neglected to do that when doing that side's line and flexy.

A new bleed nipple acts as a useful stopper for most fittings!
 
Not much i can say to help im afraid .. AOS and its plenty of grease / lubrication on any seals .

Try scotch bright on the hole the AOS enters ( sand it down basically ) .. it does tend to corrode and lever on any point you can .. youll never push it in by hand .

The pipe with the seal and the x2 tabs each side .. lack of access is the biggest head ache there .. may be a cable tie around the Aos pipe and the breather pipe then link the 2 with x2 cable ties .. pulling each one in turn might help pull it on.

think of a can of coke with a cable tie at the top and bottom then 1 down each side linking them all together .. thats the best way i can describe it :(
 
For assembling anything on the engine with seals I use silicone grease, it stops the oil/fuel attacking the seal/O rings rubber and also helps aid assembly. I have a small tin of it and it will probably last me my lifetime.

This is the same as what I use,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/391736567042?chn=ps&adgroupid=45132333541


I also got my slave cylinder through the post (collecting parts for my gearbox removal) and it does have a plastic cap on the end, it doesn't look particularly hardy though.

38921541505_03c526316d_z.jpg
 
infrasilver said:
For assembling anything on the engine with seals I use silicone grease, it stops the oil/fuel attacking the seal/O rings rubber and also helps aid assembly. I have a small tin of it and it will probably last me my lifetime.

This is the same as what I use,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/391736567042?chn=ps&adgroupid=45132333541


I also got my slave cylinder through the post (collecting parts for my gearbox removal) and it does have a plastic cap on the end, it doesn't look particularly hardy though.

38921541505_03c526316d_z.jpg

Thanks, I did lube the fittings and o rings but not got it in yet. Yep my new Sachs slave is also the same (cp4l £60).

Been wrestling with making my own cupra nickel (kunifer) brake pipes after being let down by local motor factor who said they would make me some up but didn't. So I bought a decent tool myself and made them.

I copied the bends in the old lines, regularly zip tied the new to old to follow, then simply(!) threaded them through.


PQw2MiA.jpg


OJVLQW0.jpg


Yes the over gearbox line is a PITA even with the gearbox removed, so much stuff in the way, can drop the coolant lines but even so... it would likely to be easier without pre bending the pipe. I got it in following the original route, clipped up and not contacting anything else so all is good.

When changing clutch / checking IMSB its all the stuff "while the box is out" that takes ages, not the job in hand itself......3 hours today.

Special tools: brake pipe flare tool (Laser 3434), little pipe cutter and pipe bending tool.
 
The plastic cap on the slave cyl .. it doesnt often break .. it can but not often and ive seen 1 or 2 shall we say .

Your doing well with the brake pipes and as you say .. it sounds easy , especially if your paying someone .. the reality is a bit different if you are actually doing it.

Doing well so far though and i know full well what you are going through .. so ... :worship:


:thumb:
 
Demort said:
Doing well so far though and i know full well what you are going through .. so ... :worship:

Thanks - chipping away at it!

The afternoons effort was putting a new o ring on the top AOS hose, and sliding it home. If anyone else is doing this then a new o ring will help! The old one was hard and brittle stopping it going in.

Also finished up the brake lines, new flexy and stainless nipples:

meAWhvm.jpg


K2V6hp3.jpg


That copper line is the NSR and was replaced before my time. Te brake nuts are M10x1 (11mm spanner) and one m12 (13mm spanner) in this block. My car does not have pasm so there is just one line to the rear brakes that splits here.

Also I removed the trim forward of the rear wheel. This traps MUD! loads of it, I was apprehensive about what I might find here after reading Thomp1983's thread http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=124042

klslCqw.jpg


It looks much better than I feared. I stabbed around with a screwdriver and its solid.

rIai2SB.jpg


The jack point has a crust layer.

I will buzz it all off with wire wheel in grinder, and give it all a coat of POR15, along with the brace bar. Hope the other side is OK too....

Hopefully next instalment I will get to the RMS and IMSB.

2hrs today. Special tools: Drill to remove those stupid trim screws. There must be an alternative to putting those back in?
 
I did some of my underside metal braces with POR15 last year as they were starting to look a little...old, but still fine in general.

I am also planning to pull that large grommet off mine this year and waxoyl the innards of both sills to prevent any potential rust issues.
 
infrasilver said:
I did some of my underside metal braces with POR15 last year as they were starting to look a little...old, but still fine in general.

I am also planning to pull that large grommet off mine this year and waxoyl the innards of both sills to prevent any potential rust issues.

Yep I'll do the same. There is a grommet near the front too., I'm in two minds as to wether they should stay out....

You can see in my pic a vertical grommet, I think this lets you access the sill, so easier to spray the waxoil down into the sill.

At the front if you remove the arch liner a big vent pops out the end of the sill and you can get a clear view down the sill.

I'll post a pic tomorrow if I get chance.

Anyone reading this - pop these trims off your sill ends, clean up and protect before its too late!
 
Good work Wasz!

Cleaning and painting my inner rear arches is the next job on my list. I'm apprehensive too, over what hidden nasties there may be.

Mind you I've got to get my car back first. :frustrated:
 
Here is the front of the passenger side sill, the paint is flaky on the leading edge, but looks pretty good once the mud is removed.

I have everything in this corner removed as I was doing the brake pipe (arch liner, metal cover) and I pulled the plastic vent out of the sill.

yYzkQVb.jpg


NYSg1dv.jpg


I know MX-5 owners that would kill for sills like this.

Bit of minor surface rust from condensation, a dousing in waxoil or similar should keep the rust at bay indefinitely.

You get good access here, and can poke a wand or tube into the inner cavity from here.
 
OPC comes up trumps for parts again.

Updated release arm, clip, ball pin etc
Release bearing guide tube
tensioner o rings (worlds most expensive o rings, what is it about porsche o rings, need to be right though)
cam end plug

For a good chunk less £ than design911, deroure, rosepassion etc.

Got a sachs clutch slave from cp4l.

Hopefully this is the last parts haul for a while.
 
Got a couple of hours in tonight.

1) Got the plastic trims off the sill on the other side. Sill internals look similar to the photos above, no worries really.

The rear bit where the brace bar bolts to is usually covered by the plastic trim and full of wet mud is a little crusty but solid when stabbed hard with an old screwdriver. Looks like I have got to my car in time - another 2/3 years of quietly rusting and I might have been welding.

2) Got the gearbox mounts and two steel brace bars buzzed off and doused in phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in "rust converter" products (also in coca cola to give a sharp taste) it turns iron oxide into iron phosphate, which is very stable. I have a litre of the stuff from https://mistralie.co.uk/products/gel-rust-remover being a gel it will stick to vertical surfaces.

I've seen the brace bars rot through before on other cars... mine seem to be OK but I will spray cavity wax inside them, or maybe submerge in old engine oil or something to keep them sweet.

U3Vtpv7.jpg


3) Got my caliper with a snapped nipple off. This is going to a local engineering firm as I don't have an m10x1 tap or anything else if it goes wrong.

Urx9khd.jpg


That caliper has not been bled properly for a while....
 
Jumping around again...got loads done this afternoon.

1998 dated gearbox mount... Looks OK but 130k+ miles will be sagging probably.

XHjDtgT.jpg


cut the middle out and a few horizontal and vertical cuts - this bush has metal outer - most are plastic I believe.

fqvcUmV.jpg


The new bush just slid in. HAHAHAHA

ETfxbEb.jpg


I had to make a slight taper on one end of the bush with a flap disc in the grinder. Also there is a taper on one side of the gearbox. This helped get it started then I smacked it home with a lump hammer and the adapter lent by Gixxer.

Broke out the POR15

Tk0C68f.jpg


Found TDC and stuck a cut down 8mm drill bit in

KvCirHZ.jpg


cam timing looks bob on, not slight variations here:

fZG2qs6.jpg


Made a camlock tool

915ZCAi.jpg


Put it in place near the waterpump. The workshop manual doesn't bother with this.

3PKmn1A.jpg


Whipped out the tensioners, these will get new o rings and washer seals

icOvoA2.jpg


I pondered how to clean the face up, rags didn't touch the dust. I then just sprayed brake cleaner at it and there were rivers of clutch dust. I just emptied the can at it, super.

Then I whipped the ims bearing cover off as per workshop manual to reveal another perfect IMS bearing, smooth and zero play

DiBuJzz.jpg


Seal flicked off

Tkd9el0.jpg


The revised IMS cover seal is too fat for the groove in my cover, so I just cleaned it up and buttoned it up again with plenty sealant.

zb7xYXl.jpg


The casualties:

tvSjoZf.jpg


7 hours today, inc making tool.

Special tools: camlock, disposable paintbrushes.
 

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