The wind was keeping me awake so I thought I would get up early and get a bit more done before I start work.
Moving on to the 4-6 head I basically repeated the same procedure as for the other head, except I couldn't set the engine to TDC on the correct stroke due to other head being off and the chain not wanting to turn. The damage on this head and camshafts does not look as bad, although there are clear signs that it has been off before. The head bolts were not very tight either, I measured them at around 25 lb/ft to break them. The chain tensioner was also not in very tight.
Camshaft holder fitted:
Tensioner removed:
Scavenge pump removed and solenoid cover removed, note the marker pen from a previous visitor:
All bolts undone ready to remove the cover:
Cover off:
Timing chain sprocket unbolted. Tensioner bolts and the bearing covers removed so that the camshafts can be removed, camshafts and timing adjuster removed:
Tappets removed as before, then the carrier was unbolted and removed, the tappets were put back in the correct places. They most likely won't be ever used again, but it is just a habit of trying to keep things where they came from.
Again the bores look to be in decent shape, and the head looks clean:
Now that the heads are off all of the parts have been put on one side for further work later:
The next job is to split the crankcase. The manual calls for a special tool to hold the flywheel pulley still whilst the nut is undone. I don't have one, but I do have a similar tool made many years ago for the same job on another car:
After the puller was removed the crankshaft to IMS tensioner is removed, to get to this I had to remove a water pipe:
IMS cover and centre nut is removed next. The centre nut needs to be undone whilst using a screwdriver to hold the middle still. This calls for another Porsche special tool, I guess deep ring spanners are not part of the German tool kit?
This elbow was then removed, followed by the water gallery which also holds the oil pump:
Guide rails and sump gubbins next I think, either later today or tomorrow.
Although I haven't got a proper bore measuring micrometer, I could have a go at measuring the bores with digital calipers. I assume the problem with bore ovality requires measuring the tops of the bores?
MC