Porsche 911 UK Enthusiasts Online Community Discussion Forum GB
Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.
Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.
Clutch Replacement - What Else While I'm At It?
- Thread starter willy
- Start date
Just had a highly enjoyable pint with Rob (my mechanic).
I showed him the pic from Marky911 - `yup - that's about it...'
He says the leak from the IMS flange could be solved with some liquid gasket but I've decided to spend the extra £100 for an updated one. The IMS bearing itself is fine.
Brake pipes running through this area had already been renewed (unbeknown to me) which ties up with the realization that there must have been some gearbox\clutch work between 40K and 140K that isn't in my folder.
I had asked Rob to check the starter motor as I have occasional warm-start problems. It looks fine, but he's sending it to a local electrics chap now its off to confirm.
There was an earlier question about how long it took to do the IMS work i.e. take off the flange, inspect, remove seal and replace flange. The answer was `About half an hour. You need to sort the timing out and loosen the tensioners.`. Read into that what you will, but I would guess that as an hour's labour in a `non-mates rates` garage.
Will have to wait a few days now on the new flange, starter motor and Rob's time availability.
:bandit:
I showed him the pic from Marky911 - `yup - that's about it...'
He says the leak from the IMS flange could be solved with some liquid gasket but I've decided to spend the extra £100 for an updated one. The IMS bearing itself is fine.
Brake pipes running through this area had already been renewed (unbeknown to me) which ties up with the realization that there must have been some gearbox\clutch work between 40K and 140K that isn't in my folder.
I had asked Rob to check the starter motor as I have occasional warm-start problems. It looks fine, but he's sending it to a local electrics chap now its off to confirm.
There was an earlier question about how long it took to do the IMS work i.e. take off the flange, inspect, remove seal and replace flange. The answer was `About half an hour. You need to sort the timing out and loosen the tensioners.`. Read into that what you will, but I would guess that as an hour's labour in a `non-mates rates` garage.
Will have to wait a few days now on the new flange, starter motor and Rob's time availability.
:bandit:
Alex
Nordschleife
- Joined
- 6 Mar 2014
- Messages
- 22,172
Just read through your last few posts. Mine was exactly the same - leaky IMS cover plate seal, RMS fine, flipped bearing dust shield off and checked bearing - also fine.
Only difference I had was some numpty mechanic at OPC who previously had the box off had refitted it with the wrong bolts in the wrong holes and wound a long bolt in a short hole, resulting in part of the casting broke off my block where the bell housing bolts on :nooo:
No doubt your mate Rob will know which bolts go in which holes on reassembly.
Just one other thing - dunno whether it's been mentioned or not - make sure Rob puts some sealant on the IMS cover plate bolts as oil can weep through the tapped holes resulting in weeping around that area.
Only difference I had was some numpty mechanic at OPC who previously had the box off had refitted it with the wrong bolts in the wrong holes and wound a long bolt in a short hole, resulting in part of the casting broke off my block where the bell housing bolts on :nooo:
No doubt your mate Rob will know which bolts go in which holes on reassembly.
Just one other thing - dunno whether it's been mentioned or not - make sure Rob puts some sealant on the IMS cover plate bolts as oil can weep through the tapped holes resulting in weeping around that area.
Wow Alex that's some mistake by the OPC!
There's an updated ims bearing centre shaft that has no groove in it for the small o ring (was seen as a weak point) and an updated cover which has an internal groove machined into it for the seal. You cannot go to this though unless the bearing is pulled and the issues that causes (namely stressing the bearing to remove it) so use the exiting ims cover but with the updated brown grooved seal p/n 99610511201
Item C in this pic shows OEM v updated centre shaft
I used some extra thread seal on the new flange bolts and behind the centre nut.
One other thing, liberally coat the brake line that runs over the gearbox with wax while you have access even if the exiting pipe is good. I use a sticky motorbike chain spray for this.
There's an updated ims bearing centre shaft that has no groove in it for the small o ring (was seen as a weak point) and an updated cover which has an internal groove machined into it for the seal. You cannot go to this though unless the bearing is pulled and the issues that causes (namely stressing the bearing to remove it) so use the exiting ims cover but with the updated brown grooved seal p/n 99610511201
Item C in this pic shows OEM v updated centre shaft
I used some extra thread seal on the new flange bolts and behind the centre nut.
One other thing, liberally coat the brake line that runs over the gearbox with wax while you have access even if the exiting pipe is good. I use a sticky motorbike chain spray for this.
Harv said:
Harv - does the new IMS cover seal fit the old IMS cover?
Asking as I'm going to pull my clutch and flywheel, and suspect my cover is leaking as per Marky's.
I'm not planning to pull the IMS bearing as I'm hoping it is just fine. I will just remove the outer bearing seal.
I either replace the whole cover with the new one (££), stick the old cover and seal back with some instant gasket (as Alex did).
Or if the new seal will fit my old cover I will do that (best option £10). I am just concerned the new cover has a different groove for the seal, but if you can confirm otherwise I will fit the newer seal (possibly also with some sealant to be sure).
Wasz - I'm 99% certain the updated brown multi-lipped outer seal fits all cars (they didn't change the ims cover dimensions in the casing hole)
I also used some Curil T as extra sealant behind the seal (try and leave the seal dry) thumb:
If you look closely at the rear face of Markys old ims cover there's some very strange marks (perhaps from casting??)
I also used some Curil T as extra sealant behind the seal (try and leave the seal dry) thumb:
If you look closely at the rear face of Markys old ims cover there's some very strange marks (perhaps from casting??)
Loads of good info coming out on here.
Harv - not sure if you mean the outside of my old cover or the inside re the marks, but you're correct, as both sides had issues. It was a bit of state.
The inside had a fault from the manufacturing process. You can see an area of the casting on the tapered section that hasn't cleaned up during the machining process. Iffy casting really but not important luckily.
The outside had been bodged with silicone or similar at some point. Messy bodge but that's how some folk approach things eh. :nooo:
Willy et al,
As Alex and Harv say, it's a good idea to add some sealant to the bolt heads and around the IMS cover after the seal does its job first. So no sealant on the seal, only after it.
The bolts in my earlier picture are actually the brand new ones, which come with a sealant substance on the threads. Again though it's wise to add a touch more under the bolt heads.
Speaking of which, my indy's NVQ level 3 in "Becoming an ice cream man" is starting to pay off. He's just completed his "How to apply the Monkey's Blood" module.
Alarm bells started ringing when he asked if I wanted a Flake with it.
Harv - not sure if you mean the outside of my old cover or the inside re the marks, but you're correct, as both sides had issues. It was a bit of state.
The inside had a fault from the manufacturing process. You can see an area of the casting on the tapered section that hasn't cleaned up during the machining process. Iffy casting really but not important luckily.
The outside had been bodged with silicone or similar at some point. Messy bodge but that's how some folk approach things eh. :nooo:
Willy et al,
As Alex and Harv say, it's a good idea to add some sealant to the bolt heads and around the IMS cover after the seal does its job first. So no sealant on the seal, only after it.
The bolts in my earlier picture are actually the brand new ones, which come with a sealant substance on the threads. Again though it's wise to add a touch more under the bolt heads.
Speaking of which, my indy's NVQ level 3 in "Becoming an ice cream man" is starting to pay off. He's just completed his "How to apply the Monkey's Blood" module.
Alarm bells started ringing when he asked if I wanted a Flake with it.
I have my car back
Gear change is now precise and clean.
To summarize what was done:
I think that's it but I'll check with Rob whether anything else went on whilst she was on the ramps. Will also ask him how much time it took for info\reference.
Thanks for all the contributions here chaps. It doesn't get said enough but the discussion and experiences are worth a million.
:thumbs:
Gear change is now precise and clean.
To summarize what was done:
- Replace clutch and flywheel with a SACHS clutch kit and a LUK flywheel (new bolts used for flywheel);
Replace RMS;
Remove IMS flange\cover. Remove seal from IMS bearing and check condition. Mine was fine;
Refit IMS flange with generous amounts of gasket seal around both flange and bolts. * Note - I chose to re-use my old flange after advice from Rob;
Check brake piping. Had already been previously repaired. Grease generously to protect;
Clean starter motor (unrelated to this job but it was an opportune moment);
I think that's it but I'll check with Rob whether anything else went on whilst she was on the ramps. Will also ask him how much time it took for info\reference.
Thanks for all the contributions here chaps. It doesn't get said enough but the discussion and experiences are worth a million.
:thumbs:
Clutch \ RMS \ flywheel change : 1 day. He commented on the amount of plastics \ ancillaries that need removing before he could start the real work.
IMS bearing check : 1 hour once you know what you're doing. He fessed up to checking t'Internet to see what all the fuss (my fuss) was about.
IMS bearing check : 1 hour once you know what you're doing. He fessed up to checking t'Internet to see what all the fuss (my fuss) was about.
Goodstuff Willy,
With a bit of luck you won't be revisiting any of that for a long time, so worthwhile getting it all ticked off the list now. :thumb:
Not a terrible job on a lift and with the right tools. My Indy charges £300 labour plus any parts, which I generally gather before heading down there.
With a bit of luck you won't be revisiting any of that for a long time, so worthwhile getting it all ticked off the list now. :thumb:
Not a terrible job on a lift and with the right tools. My Indy charges £300 labour plus any parts, which I generally gather before heading down there.
Similar threads
New Threads
-
Another steering wheel upgrader needing advice- Started by Jonesie
- Replies: 0
-
For Sale 997.2 C4 GTS PDK Convertible FOR SALE 37k Full OPC Hist Massive Spec
- Started by chrisboddy
- Replies: 0
-
-
For Sale 255/50/17 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymetric 2 (pair) for sale
- Started by jerzybondov
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
Wanted Used PCCM Single Din
- Started by Adam_M
- Replies: 0
Porsche Model Range
Porsche 911
Porsche 992: 2018-
Porsche 991: 2011-2019
Porsche 997: 2004-2012
Porsche 996: 1997-2005
Porsche 993: 1993-1998
Porsche 964: 1989-1993
Porsche Carrera 3.2: 1983-1989
Porsche Carrera SC: 1977-1983
Porsche 930 Turbo: 1975-1989
Porsche Early 911: 1964-1977
Porsche Hypercars
Porsche 918 Spyder
Porsche Carrera GT
Porsche GT1
Porsche 959
Other Current Porsche Model
Porsche Taycan : (2019-0%)
Porsche Macan : 2013-
Porsche Panamera : 2009-
Porsche Cayman: 2005-
Porsche Cayenne: 2003-
Porsche Boxster: 1997-
Porsche Legacy Models
Porsche 928
Porsche 968
Porsche 944
Porsche 924
Porsche 914
Porsche 912
Porsche 904
Porsche 550
Porsche 356 Speedster
Porsche 356
