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New Toy!! (DA Polisher)

Halcyon

Well-known member
Joined
2 Nov 2015
Messages
829
Got myself an orbital polisher at long last! The Katsu 600W and I'm pretty impressed! It's only £50 too!! Well built, works well.. doesn't get hot (maybe slightly noisy, but not excessive)
I've only done the bonnet and wings so far (following Kev's excellent advice) and it's shiny as a shiny thing!! (Only used normal Autoglym polish)
Also bought a set of waffle-type polishing heads.

so I'm now after advice - friend's BMW Z4 bonnet feels rough to the touch. We've clayed it, but that wasn't enough - So i'm guessing I could use the polisher with a cutting compound?
Is T-Cut ok for this purpose? Or there is there something else (available from Halfrauds!) I should use?

:?:
 
This thread is useless without pics! :)
 
Of the polisher?

a54eca33-3ce8-4a26-8bcc-b3fb8a554516_large.jpg
 
Was more thinking of the results you've had so far....
 
Try calling the guy at cleanyourcar.co.uk he will put you right on the polish you need. Don't use the machine on your mates car unless your sure all the contaminates are out of the paint as you could put more swirl marks into it than you polish out. The roughness you feel , is it down to a bad repainted or do you think it's particles stuck to the paint?
 
Halcyon said:
Got myself an orbital polisher at long last! The Katsu 600W and I'm pretty impressed! It's only £50 too!! Well built, works well.. doesn't get hot (maybe slightly noisy, but not excessive)
I've only done the bonnet and wings so far (following Kev's excellent advice) and it's shiny as a shiny thing!! (Only used normal Autoglym polish)
Also bought a set of waffle-type polishing heads.

so I'm now after advice - friend's BMW Z4 bonnet feels rough to the touch. We've clayed it, but that wasn't enough - So i'm guessing I could use the polisher with a cutting compound?
Is T-Cut ok for this purpose? Or there is there something else (available from Halfrauds!) I should use?

:?:

Those DA's are fairly user friendly and you would need to be pretty abusive to do any damage. To be honest in the hands of a beginner you will most likely need a fairly course compound as a lot of the result is the right technique. I use a Flex 3401 which is a bit of a handful but has a lot of guts and won't take as much to remove defects.
Off the shelf products is pretty slim pickings. Meguiars are probably the best off the shelf if you can get it....maybe Megs Ultimate Compound. Failing this your best bet would get yourself some Menzerna compounds, maybe a 203s.

If the paint has never been decontaminated/clayed before it may need a couple of passes. I would also reccomend using some Iron Out fall out remover. Dry the car then wipe thoroughly with part IPA alcohol/part water solution.👍🏻
 
Halfords sell the Meguires Ultimate Compound, so the easiest to buy and probably good enough.
I have clayed the bonnet and it improved things a lot, but it really needs a good polish to get it "silky"

But I guess i should try a section using just polish first - start with the least abrasive before going in balls deep! haha!
 
Halcyon said:
Halfords sell the Meguires Ultimate Compound, so the easiest to buy and probably good enough.
I have clayed the bonnet and it improved things a lot, but it really needs a good polish to get it "silky"

But I guess i should try a section using just polish first - start with the least abrasive before going in balls deep! haha!

Trust me you will struggle to damage the paint with that polisher....I not saying there rubbish, it's a good value DA but there super safe. I used to have one similar before I bought my Flex and you can be pretty rough with it without the worry of doing damage....if anything there a little too safe....you need to work it hard to get a full correction.
Have a look at this link.....it's an old clip and not exactly the same polisher as yours but very similar. It will show you what I mean.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2XAqpOe9Zt4

It the paint still feels rough after claying I'd say it needs another go. You are better off making sure the paint is completely clear of all old crap before polishing....that will be years of contamination build up that polish won't shift.

Wash the car with a mix of washing up liquid and APC. This is not always reccomended but it will strip all old wax and polish first. Then hit it with Iron out contamination remover, de-tar and then clay. It should be fairly smooth to touch before you go at it with your DA.
 
Megs Ultimate Compound is pretty good stuff.
 
Pity you're not near me or I'd let you practise on my CooperS as I want to strip the wax, polish out the swirles and then apply that gtechniq Evo stuff :grin:

What do you reckon a car valeter would charge me for that as the fluffer pad on my Black & Decker won't cut the mustard :dont know:
 
BChivs said:
Halcyon said:
Halfords sell the Meguires Ultimate Compound, so the easiest to buy and probably good enough.
I have clayed the bonnet and it improved things a lot, but it really needs a good polish to get it "silky"

But I guess i should try a section using just polish first - start with the least abrasive before going in balls deep! haha!

Trust me you will struggle to damage the paint with that polisher....I not saying there rubbish, it's a good value DA but there super safe. I used to have one similar before I bought my Flex and you can be pretty rough with it without the worry of doing damage....if anything there a little too safe....you need to work it hard to get a full correction.
Have a look at this link.....it's an old clip and not exactly the same polisher as yours but very similar. It will show you what I mean.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2XAqpOe9Zt4

It the paint still feels rough after claying I'd say it needs another go. You are better off making sure the paint is completely clear of all old crap before polishing....that will be years of contamination build up that polish won't shift.

Wash the car with a mix of washing up liquid and APC. This is not always reccomended but it will strip all old wax and polish first. Then hit it with Iron out contamination remover, de-tar and then clay. It should be fairly smooth to touch before you go at it with your DA.

Brilliant advice! Thank you - I'll let you know how I get on :thumb:
 
Zingari said:
Pity you're not near me or I'd let you practise on my CooperS as I want to strip the wax, polish out the swirles and then apply that gtechniq Evo stuff :grin:

What do you reckon a car valeter would charge me for that as the fluffer pad on my Black & Decker won't cut the mustard :dont know:

Detailing is not cheap, but its ball breaking work and takes a lot of time to do properly. A full detail dependant on the cars condition carried out to the right standard can sometimes be in excess of 30 hours labour.
 
Have a scan at this, will give you a good idea and some good techniques as well. On my last car I re-sprayed the front bumper, cut back and then polished it out with the Menzerna range. I have a DA polisher and is easy to use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcoKPf0NobM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfKzgAdDZ9Y


What I used was FG400 (deeper Cut), PF2300 (Medium Cut) & SF4000 (Fine Cut).

For the pads & generally use Orange (Heavy Cut), Blue (Light Cut and polishing), White (Polish) & Black (Finishing).

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=284956


TBH it all depends what the condition is like but a rule of thumb is always start light and work heavy cutting/polishing and take your time as it can be a very long process but worth the wait.

Best of luck mate, expect to see some gleaming results.
 
If you need some Menzerna products cheap let me know....I have a lot of stuff unused.
 

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