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Help!!- won't start (997.1)

As others have said, you have ruled out the battery, worth a check of the earth first. The starter motor cable is the other known weak point but that usually manifests itself through having trouble starting from hot but if left long enough will have the same effect from cold too. If you have a decent multi meter you can check this out!
 
Its going to be the Vts that has been fitted but you probably dont know anything about .. you should have x2 black fobs which have a battery in them .

If you have got one of these somewhere then put a battery in it and turn it on .

If not then youll have to pm me for details about the unit as i cant post security details here .
 
For those of you at home who were playing this game; the correct answer was of course the clutch micro switch. I think Porschekit called this correctly first; he's the lucky recipient of a virtual hamper :dont know:
well done to everyone to joined in.

PS- there was me thinking British cars had cornered the unreliability market, Tsk.
 
Just for Info ...


To get the depress clutch message you have to hold the key in the start position for a few seconds .. if you do that and get the message then its the switch .. if you dont then pm me as its either a totally dead starter or its the VTS of which ill then explain all about :)


The switch suffers from dirt ingress .. there was a huge recall on them many years ago .
 
Thanks...I accept that virtual hamper with pleasure and at present I am chewing on a virtual ham bone washed down with virtual fine Chablis, :grin:
glad you got your car sorted....good forum this ... :thumb:
 
Post script to this tale; on Saturday Mrs Brownspeed suffered the same issue as previous- She was suitably unimpressed (with me AND the car)
Now that I know where the switches are, I by passed both (somewhat smugly) only to find that it didn't change a thing. :)sad: !)
Luckily with the help of 2 passers by it went on a bump start and I was able to get it home.
Sunday was sporadic torrential rain here so I opted to check out the relays as it seemed an easier option than getting to the starter (I am a coward- I know). it wasn't the relay. Mrs B now even less impressed with the car :(.

So; earlier this week I bit the bullet and dragged out sufficient internal gubbins to get me access to the starter terminals. With a reluctant Mrs B on the key, I checked the feed was switching with the key; it was!
DeMort advised that I remove the alternator to improve access- which improved the access up to awful level.
after a bit of cajoling (involving a hammer, a lump of wood and a crowbar) it finally was free.
However- when I tested it out of the car- it worked fine. now here's the moral- I wasn't convinced, so I got my local motor factors to get it tested- which found a intermittent fault.
new starter subsequently installed along with all the removed gubbins- it spun up and fired first go- Happy days.
yes- I disconnected the battery while I did this. and yes, I removed the clutch switch by-passes.

I'm writing this as mine is an early 997- this double fault may just be lurking around the corner for other 997s).

Porschekit- you can still keep the Hamper !
DeMort- thank you kindly sir- you are a legend- I'll buy you a real beer if I ever get the chance.
 
TBH it was more of a confidence thing for me. once I got going it was fiddly at worst. I made certain to label up all the connections and take pics as I removed bits.
The obstacles were really just the gubbins that was still there after the induction components were out which get in the way a tad.
The induction system from the air filter onwards needs to come out just to expose the terminals.
note- the big rascal is permanently live- if anyone is daft enough to tackle this- disconnect the battery at this point.
Then to access the lower starter bolt (torx screw) the alternator also needs removing. a 3/8" torx socket, universal joint and 18" of extension bars will then (just about) thread through underneath the manifold on the NS.
I then needed another extension, 3/8x1/2 adapter and a 1/2" breaker bar to shift both bolts. I was able to reach these by hand once unscrewed, to avoid dropping them into the Bermuda triangle area which previously claimed my faithful 1/4 drive socket when I was removing the hose clips
To break it free I got a long screwdriver below it at the end and levered the body up to release from the bellhousing.
its a pretty small unit, so final removal from inside was a doddle.
 

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