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Remote locking, window drop issues.

infrasilver

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4 Oct 2010
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I have had a intermittent locking issue for a little while but as I have not used the car much recently I haven't gotten around to sorting it out but today it is no longer intermittent and is an issue.

Originally I thought my remote battery had failed but after fitting a new one the issue was the same, I did all the usual fixes, battery in backwards, in the door and turn a few time etc but I now had to use the key in the door. This wasn't a major issue as I said but now I have various problems now.

The drivers door window won't drop when I pull the handle, the passenger door won't now lock with the rest of the car, fuel flap won't unlock and the locking button on the dash is lit red permanently, it's got it knickers in a twist.
I'm leaning towards a micro switch problem but I would thought I would put it on here for any other info of what it could be as I would like to get it fixed ASAP now.
 
If the car is locked with the remote then unlocked with the key then its still in alarm mode , the passengers door often wont unlock , the lock button on the dash will be illuminated so that part is the similar .. well ish ..

Im not sure about the window drop and i would have thought the fuel flap would unlock but ive not been in a situation to have checked these so im not sure .. im just there normally to code on a new key at that point.

It does sound like thats where your at though and if so then you need to do this first ..

Aww just check under the passenger seat on the alarm cu and make sure its not wet .. all sorts of problems if that happens .

Only other thing i can think of is a passengers door lock fault but i dont really do coincidence .. if one thing breaks then fine .. x2 or more at the same time .. hmmm .
 
Just scanned it and have 10 fault codes but this has been happening on and off since June and every fault is showing up, just today I have used it for the first time in around 12 days and have been using only the key in the door since June and that has been fine up until now. The alarm is not now arming, only just noticed this and as said passenger door is not locking, drivers door is but obviously the key is doing this manually. This issue started in Croatia (June road trip) and it only rained for one day and I haven't noticed any leaks at all, just double checked and it it totally dry under the seat, infact it's dusty. Also just noticed the interior door marker lights are staying on all the time, like it thinks the doors are open/unlocked.

Codes, although these may be more of a hindrance than a help?



 
Ok theres quite a bit going on with the codes there and a few stick out ..

Doors locked with term 15 on counter of 22 .. it thinks the car is locked but the ignition key is still in the lock .. i think theres an actual values for this on the testers and its something like term 51x on with the key out ..

To test this .. best guess is unplug the connection from the ignition lock so it wont see the switch and see if the car locks , not something ive tryed and ive only seen this fault once on a Boxster .. car wouldn,t lock at all other than the drivers door with the key .. took me ages and i mean ages to figure it out .

Code for faulty micro switch on drivers door but very low counter .. that would stop the other locks (passenger , fuel flap ) from operateing .

On a tester i would be looking at actual values for shut but not secure when locked .

To test .. a new lock really .. im lucky in that we keep them in stock so its quick enough to swop out and confirm this is faulty.

Alarm actuation from drivers door is the same fault .

The others are fault related .. you get them when something else is at fault normally .

Ignition lock is the main thing the car is seeing from the fault counters on all codes though .. pretty dam rare if it is that as i said .. ive only seen it once but i would start with that.

My confusion is the central lock button light on .. that indictes its in alarm mode and is normally there when fob has shut the car but key has opened it .

Start with the ignition side though and see what happens .. im off now but ill revisit tommorrow and have a think about it to see what else i can come up with .
 
infrasilver said:
Just scanned it and have 10 fault codes but this has been happening on and off since June and every fault is showing up, just today I have used it for the first time in around 12 days and have been using only the key in the door since June and that has been fine up until now. The alarm is not now arming, only just noticed this and as said passenger door is not locking, drivers door is but obviously the key is doing this manually. This issue started in Croatia (June road trip) and it only rained for one day and I haven't noticed any leaks at all, just double checked and it it totally dry under the seat, infact it's dusty. Also just noticed the interior door marker lights are staying on all the time, like it thinks the doors are open/unlocked.

Codes, although these may be more of a hindrance than a help?




I'm having the same problem(s). It started with the key fobs both failing...opening and locking the car manually with the key didn't bother me, but now the driver's window doesn't go back up when the door is shut so is noisy on the m'way. Interior door courtesy lights also stay on when driving (and get v hot). One thing i did get from reading the manual...if you lock the driver's door 3 times in quick succession with the key, the alarm sets and the passenger door also locks (and the driver's window goes fully up), so at least the car can be locked if parking in a public place.

I'm watching this thread closely to see exactly what needs doing!

Good luck with yours infrasilver
 
I have the same situation and again all started after the car was left for a few weeks.

I use the the key to lock and unlock and noticed turning the barrel to unlock once opens the drivers door only, multiple unlocks in quick succession also open the pax door and the fuel filler flap.

Does that work for you ?
 
Ive had a little think .. it was late last night ! ..

The ignition on with door locked might mean its in alarm mode so this might be a red herring .

Ive got a feeling that its micro switches in the drivers door lock that are at fault , drivers door lock required or repaired .

The alarm system may well be confused or even in alarm mode but you will all need new key heads to get this sideworking.

My reasoning ..

Fob is the normal way the car locks/unlocks and i know that if the car is locked with the fob and opened with the key then there will be a permanent fault untill a new key is coded and the car is unlocked .

This usually means the passenger door cant be unlocked and the lock light on the button is illuminated .. it will only unlock / lock the drivers door .

Useing the key to manually open the car will operate different parts of the lock mechanism inside the lock .. these are old and havent been used in that way for a long time so im guessing the switches wear out or break the solder joints pretty quick... and you all have similar faults by useing the key .

The lock mechanism are getting old and this being faulty will stop window drop , will cause interior lights to stay on and if it thinks the drivers door is open then it wont want to lock the car .

There are posts on repairing the lock mechanism , to test then its a wiring diagram and check each micro switch in turn .

Thats the best i have im afraid .
 
This was my initial thought of it being an issue with the drivers side micro-switch when it started to get worse and I realised it wasn't just a key fob battery issue.

I can't remember my symptoms but I did have a passenger door micro-switch go faulty around 6 years ago which didn't allow me to open/unlock the passenger door at all, the only way I could get to it and open the door to fit a new micro-switch was to remove the door card with the seat in place and the door closed, this was a major PITA to do.

I will swap out the micro-switch on the drivers side and hope to get some kind of normality back.

DM, is there just the one micro-switch in the drivers side door?
 
Isn't there 2 microswitches for the window drop - both internal and external door handles. Forgot to connect my internal one back up to the back of the card when I fitted a new window regulator and it prevented the window drop using both internal and external handles.
 
infrasilver said:
Also found this which may be of use, a great explanation by RichardH,

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=73194

I think that post covers it all to be honest :D

There was a post a while back about removeing the door mechanism , taking it appart and resoldering the switch joints.

Basically they become what we call a dry joint .. the switch pin or leg breaks away from the solder on the cicuit board ..

This would be the cheapest repair and would also save money on replaceing something that might not be at fault .

It could be a wiring fault after all in the door to body loom .. ive never seen it as its always been the lock thats faulty but it is possible.

The switch on the inner and outer handles is there for the window drop .. But the window will Still drop if these dont work when the alarm control unit see,s the switch in the lock mechanism saying the door is open .

A few pictures of the switches in this link .. have to scroll a long way down though ..

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/503548-question-about-window-regulator-and-switches-3.html
 
I have eventually got to the bottom of this as I had to send the car away to a local indie to diagnose due to lack of time on my part.

They found the remote needed a new fob and programming which I did assume anyway but they also had to replace both internal door lock/latches, passenger and drivers as there were various isolated issues. I was a little dubious to their findings as they said they are all isolated but as it was intermittent they all worked or didn't work at the same time and seemed to me to be related. Was an expensive repair but all back to how it should be now.
 
The key fob we knew needed replacement ..

The drivers door lock and that was expected , you had codes for it and the right symptoms ..

The passenger side then you didnt have codes but it could well have flagged up a fault after fob and drivers lock replaced .. sods law basically .

Its fixed is the main thing , it will last another 10 years plus so ignoreing the final bill ... :thumb:
 

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