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Brake lines

+1 on Kunifer, it's been around for years (I used it on a Viva in the 1970s) and has great reputation.
 
Not sure that's actually correct, my Elan +2 has copper pipes fitted by a PO, they're very different in colour from Kunifer.

Kunifer is a silver/green colour whereas Copper is, well copper coloured like a 2p coin!
 
Maybe true of your car, but its not good practice to use plain copper and hasn't been for a long time.

Copper work-hardens from vibrations and pressure cycling.

Exacerbated if not clipped up properly or ill fitting. I.e. you likely need more clips for a copper line than typically used on a steel factory line.

Apparently copper brake lines aren't legal in the USA, Canada or Australia.

Copper-nickel or cunifer brand is what you want.
 
maldren said:
Not sure that's actually correct, my Elan +2 has copper pipes fitted by a PO, they're very different in colour from Kunifer.

Kunifer is a silver/green colour whereas Copper is, well copper coloured like a 2p coin!

Pretty sure Kunifer isn't silver/green, it's mainly copper with nickel/iron added AFAIK. Thought it was like copper just a little lighter e.g. bronzey/gold rather than pure copper coloured.

I thought the silver/green was usually steel pipe with a coating on it?
 
Evening gents... OK so now I've sorted the coffin arms and track rods... I can finally continue with the brake lines.... :?
I have replaced the hard line on the calipers.. I have also bought some shiny new Goodridge hoses to replace the old rubber lines... BUT.. There's a slight problem with the nut being rusted solid on the no.9 hard line.. :wack: I have bought a 11mm flare nut spanner it seems slightly too big.. I have bought a 10mm flare nut spanner it's too small.. so it needs a 10.5mm :?: :dont know: I suspect it's imperial.

So has anyone got any ideas :?: I really don't want to replace the no. 9 line.. so my thoughts are... if I cut the nut off :what: and used a pipe cutter to chop the flange off... :oops: I could then put a new male nut on the old line then reflange it :?:
Is there any obvious flaws in my theory? ?
Thanks
 
Ive been keeping my eye on this thread as i did wonder if all the lines would come undone .

Its either a 10 or 11 mm as there is no imperial anything on Porsches and there is no 10.5 .. it should be an 11 which has corroded .

Your choices ..

Replace No.9 ..

Do a cut and join on No.9 .. i dont recomend that ..

Use mole grips on the corroded nut and either a spanner or more mole grips on the flexi pipe .. youll need to force it out of the bracket or at least far enough so it can be turned as the bracket locates the flexi pipe ... and whilst holding the metal pipe ( no.9 ) in place you will undo and twist off the flexi pipe .

Its important not to allow the metal pipe to twist .. it wants to be held ridgid as too much twist will fracture it .

Your kinda doing the job backwards basically .

You could cut the nut and re flair but if its steel pipes then i wish you the very best of luck there and if not it may well be too short to reach the pipe ... i think go down this route if my above suggestion doesnt work :)
 
Demort said:
Ive been keeping my eye on this thread as i did wonder if all the lines would come undone .

Its either a 10 or 11 mm as there is no imperial anything on Porsches and there is no 10.5 .. it should be an 11 which has corroded .

Your choices ..

Replace No.9 ..

Do a cut and join on No.9 .. i dont recomend that ..

Use mole grips on the corroded nut and either a spanner or more mole grips on the flexi pipe .. youll need to force it out of the bracket or at least far enough so it can be turned as the bracket locates the flexi pipe ... and whilst holding the metal pipe ( no.9 ) in place you will undo and twist off the flexi pipe .

Its important not to allow the metal pipe to twist .. it wants to be held ridgid as too much twist will fracture it .

Your kinda doing the job backwards basically .

You could cut the nut and re flair but if its steel pipes then i wish you the very best of luck there and if not it may well be too short to reach the pipe ... i think go down this route if my above suggestion doesnt work :)

Thanks Demort
The double mole grips method is getting my vote :thumb: The rest of the no.9 pipe is in good condition.
But one question.... will the old nut be reusable if I get it off with the mole grips? Basically will I be able to use the mole grips or spanner to tighten it to the new flexible hose? Or will no.9 pipe need to be replaced?
Thanks
 
If you use mole grips then you remove the flexi from the metal pipe and refit it the same way .. it wont be pretty but then it isnt now due to the corrosion.

You could use something else rather than mole grips if you want as thats just an example. .. there are pliers out there with plastic jaws .

The best way is obviously to replace all the pipes needed but this was an unexpected failure and so a quicker repair for now is IMHO fine .

If it doesnt work then you are left with replacing no.9 .. i think reflairing might be a problem .

Lets face it if it dont leak then theres nothing wrong with it , i dont condem things because they are ugly :D

Anyways you got my number if you need it !
 
I usually heat them up with a blow torch, the crud falls off them and they unseize too. Sometimes you get the brake fluid catching fire as it drips out which is always interesting.

Another favourite trick is when the flexi pipe is siezed into the calliper and you heat the calliper so much the flexi blows off and makes a sound like a gunshot.

Neither of the above are the best way to do the job by the way.... I hadn't thought of the double mole grip method :oops:
 
cunifer/copper comparison, just so you can identify what you are buying, copper is the bottom one and as mentioned, it is about the same colour as a 2p coin :thumb:
 

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Demort said:
If you use mole grips then you remove the flexi from the metal pipe and refit it the same way .. it wont be pretty but then it isnt now due to the corrosion.

You could use something else rather than mole grips if you want as thats just an example. .. there are pliers out there with plastic jaws .

The best way is obviously to replace all the pipes needed but this was an unexpected failure and so a quicker repair for now is IMHO fine .

If it doesnt work then you are left with replacing no.9 .. i think reflairing might be a problem .

Lets face it if it dont leak then theres nothing wrong with it , i dont condem things because they are ugly :D

Anyways you got my number if you need it !

Cheers Demort your a good un :thumb:
 
ragpicker said:
I usually heat them up with a blow torch, the crud falls off them and they unseize too. Sometimes you get the brake fluid catching fire as it drips out which is always interesting.

Another favourite trick is when the flexi pipe is siezed into the calliper and you heat the calliper so much the flexi blows off and makes a sound like a gunshot.

Neither of the above are the best way to do the job by the way.... I hadn't thought of the double mole grip method :oops:

Cheers Ragpicker your a good un too... But also a slightly dangerous un.. :lol: :thumb:
 
diverzeusy said:
cunifer/copper comparison, just so you can identify what you are buying, copper is the bottom one and as mentioned, it is about the same colour as a 2p coin :thumb:

Thanks diverzeusy :thumb: I have just explained to my wife how someone had posted about spotting cunifer by its colour.. she's just said "conifers are always green they don't turn copper" :eh!:
I do wonder obout her sometimes :dont know:
 

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