Porsche 911UK Forum

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

Essential Guide - Wheel Bolt Maintenance DIY - save £££'s

Chris W

Well-known member
Joined
17 Sep 2006
Messages
7,851
Often overlooked but a few tips I'm writing up for 996/997 onwards. Most of this I undertake with every wheel refurbishment we do.

Doing this could avoid the need for replacement which costs £150 for a full set,a nd protects against total failure and loosing a wheel.

The wheel bolts inherently suffer from bad corrosion:
-acid wheel cleaner as soon as they are washed
-lack of coating from factory
-bimetallic corrosion between steel head and alloy collar

This is a picture of the various stages of corrosion and ultimate failure.
-collar is sintered alloy, hard on the outside, soft and vulnerable inside
-collar expands with corrosion meaning very tight over torqued bolts
-collar reacts with steel if not protected
-collar disintegrates and bolt falls out!



There are 2 essential jobs to do.

1. actually on the Porsche Service Bulletin but is very rarely undertaken, that is to grease with OPTIMOL TA (not copper grease) between the head and the collar. Optimol is temp resistent to 1100C and detergent resistant. The bolts get very warm with being next to and connected to the brakes, copper grease will just melt away on to your wheels.

This achieves:
-correct lubrication to allow correct torque when tightening. Any corrosion will lock the head and collar together and incorrect torque. You will find this is what causes the bolts to 'chatter' when tightening.
-prevents corrosion between the 2 surfaces which leads to failure

2. Paint the bolts including the collar. Do not use Hammerite type thick coatings NOR brush on. This leads to too much paint that looks inferior but will also chip and flake off too easily, leading to a harder job next time. Light coat sprayed on will suffice for a good few months and is easier to top up.

This achieves:
-fresher look
-resistance to rusting
-prevents wheel cleaner attacking surface of collar

PROCEDURE (note: reversal of above order 1 & 2)

Painting the bolts BEFORE lubrication

-products: Simoniz Wheel Silver/Cardboard

Remove all, or for ease without a jack, remove one or two from each wheel.

Clean/degrease/rub down lightly if inclined but NOT essential

Make holes through a piece of large cardboard

Warm paint can if necessary, shake thoroughly for 30 secs.

Lightly coat every side with light strokes and do not allow heavy build up. If necessary repeat once but do not overcoat as it will lead to flaking.

Ensure collar is painted too.

Allow to dry for 5 mins and remove from cardboard ready for next step.







These are brand new bolts straight out of the pack. The same applies to these.





Lubricating the bolts AFTER painting

This is important as painting after grease will be problematic obviously, and leave you with greasy hands.

-Products required: Optimol TA paste/plastic syringe

I sell Optimol at very keen price on website or contact direct. http://www.exelwheels.co.uk/Accessories---Info.html

The syringe means more precise application and less wasteful.

Optimol comes in a tube which makes it easier to squeeze like toothpaste when you want to put in a syringe.





Take each bolt and separate the collar away from the head to make space for grease.

Only apply a very small amount about the size of a grain of long rice should do. You dont want it oozing out everywhere.





Then close the gap and twist gently to spread the grease evenly between the two surfaces. It will ooze out if you've used too much.

Here you can see a thin layer without overspill.



Next it is helpful if you grease the thread which will prevent seizure and rusting. The harder the bolts are too remove the more likely you/mechanic will cause damage to your nice wheels as well as ensuring correct torque. There are arguments for and against this practice, I am for.

A useful method is to apply 2 small lines ensuring it reaches to end.



Then take a tissue or paper napkin (save your cloths) and just twist in your fingers to spread evenly.



Finally re-insert into wheel and continue with rest.

Just a few words on the security bolts.

The worst kind are the ones below on the left, the better ones on the right.



The reason is that the older type are prone to rusting up and this makes removal of the key, especially on deeper recessed wheels, very HARD! This is the one time you really risk chipping the wheel. Any paint in these increases the problem unless they are in good condition.

We supply these but if you are buying yourself make sure you buy as above part number for all standard 986/996/997 length bolts i.e. without running spacers (if extended bolts you need different part number).

Finally you are ready to refit and carry on with more. Torque to 130Nm which roughly equates to when you need to lock your elbow using a wrench.

BEFORE



AFTER

 
Excellent write up. How much better is that grease then as I normally just just copper grease which does not melt behind my brake pads or my wheel bolts
 
Optimol is superb for a number of applications and specifically vital for centrelock wheels. It will stop all sorts of corrosion on fittings especially where 2 metals are involved.

Versus copper slip/grease it's much better for hub face and centrebore which are alloy on to steel. Copperslip is designed for brake pads and won't do any harm just not the same and it will melt away.
 
I feel I could have inspired this writeup perhaps with all my questions and the quality control clipboard lol

Bake the paint I love your method !!!!
 
Gary996 said:
I feel I could have inspired this writeup perhaps with all my questions and the quality control clipboard lol

Bake the paint I love your method !!!!

Just a little Gary...how are your fresh tyres? :)

But also I have a 4S with me for a few weeks from Cornwall while the owner works abroad so took the opportunity to detail.
 
Did mine today. Looks brilliant. Thanks for the write-up. I had to do it just 2 nuts at a time from each wheel or the wheels would have fallen off, but in total was only about 90 mins.
 
I sorted mine yesterday, prompted by replacing some aftermarket locking wheel bolts that used a 17mm socket and had a fixed radius rather than a collar. Replaced with McGard 28177SU's.

You will notice two locking bolts in one of the pictures - this was so I could 'gain' 4 bolts for spraying. I had some 'Cool-it' thermotec silver paint in stock for coating their exhaust wrap so thought the 2000 degrees capability
suitable!

The castrol paste in a tube no longer seems to be available so used Revol aluminium anti seize which was in stock.

Process was soak the bolts in some cellulose thinners and a good clean with a bit of rag. Wire brush the bolt head and rub with scotchbrite pad. Spray with brake cleaner as final cleanse, leave to dry then spray silver.

Before....
 

Attachments

  • 79e8ea0b_0818_416d_9b7f_559b4a516d1e_147.jpeg
    79e8ea0b_0818_416d_9b7f_559b4a516d1e_147.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 9,295
After

It has been a worthwhile exercise as I've found one bolt where the collar has started to corrode so I'll get it replaced.
 

Attachments

  • 335f486e_dbdb_45d5_8428_826614e8b987_129.jpeg
    335f486e_dbdb_45d5_8428_826614e8b987_129.jpeg
    448.8 KB · Views: 9,284
Great article as I'm doing mine atm. As Optimol TA Paste 100g doesn't seem to be available anywhere what alternative would you suggest for lubricating the threads?
 
Scholester said:
TonyC911 said:
Cybot7 said:
Great article as I'm doing mine atm. As Optimol TA Paste 100g doesn't seem to be available anywhere what alternative would you suggest for lubricating the threads?

:?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-...-tidy-still-have-some-in-stock-o/153340829717
Yes, got mine from this seller last week with no issues at all.

That's not the same lubricant.

Optimol Paste TA has a very high boiling point (1100*C), Optimol Paste T does not advertise itself as being high temperature, so I suspect it isn't.

This guy still has some TA:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100g-Tub...875365&hash=item33b1d22a1f:g:YG0AAOSweh9eSpR-
 
I did just this back in February and it made a big difference.

I used a wire wheel on my bench grinder to clean the bolts before spraying.

They look like new.

Good write up :thumbs:
 

New Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
124,354
Messages
1,439,457
Members
48,711
Latest member
Silage
Back
Top