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964 bump steer cure

R

robertpaulson

New member
Joined
16 Apr 2015
Messages
40
Hi folks,

I have my car booked into CoG in oct for new bushes/top mounts/kw v3. I love the look of the lowered cars but don't want to live with excessive bumpsteer - is there any way around this other than the 993RS uprights, new tie rods/ball joints/brake calipers?

How bad is RS -10mm in terms of handling on bumpy roads without any wheel carrier changes?
 
Anything below RS +5mm and bump steer starts to appear. I would advise getting your car set up with a full tank of fuel. Big loads on the front can do funny things to toe angles when you run down near RS height which can cause tyre wear.
 
Probably best to speak/leave to Chris & Pete at CG, if it can be done they're definately the best to advise and sort. :thumbs:
 
I have heard that 0 degree of toe on the front can reduce bump steer and improve understeer but I would second the fact that if you are going to a specialist to get them to set up your car then let them do it.

No harm discussing the options with some knowledge and suspension setup is always a compromise so just go for the best compromise of looks/handling or whatever it is you are seeking...!
 
CoG office are out on summer hols until the 25th so if someone has any insight then much appreciated.

Do the '964 bumpsteer kits' (which appear to just be an odd shaped tie rod) work in any anyone's experience or is the only solution the 993RS wheel carrier and required brake upgrade?
 
Short of changing the hub there is nothing that can help. Tie rods are slightly different between models but this connects to roll bar which doesn't cause bump steer but can help with preload in some instances.
Also best be aware that new suspension does settle, so best to set up about +5 to +10mm initially which in time will lower a little. Btw it takes a keen eye to even spot 10mm differences in ride height.
My car settled to RS height and had +5 minutes of toe. On full tanks and full luggage the car lowered to RS-12mm and -10 minutes of toe. This caused all sorts of tyre problems. It's best to understand it is a compromise with the 911, hence my suggestion to set up your car as above and to do it when the tank is full.
 
ras62 said:
Short of changing the hub there is nothing that can help. Tie rods are slightly different between models but this connects to roll bar which doesn't cause bump steer but can help with preload in some instances.
Also best be aware that new suspension does settle, so best to set up about +5 to +10mm initially which in time will lower a little. Btw it takes a keen eye to even spot 10mm differences in ride height.
My car settled to RS height and had +5 minutes of toe. On full tanks and full luggage the car lowered to RS-12mm and -10 minutes of toe. This caused all sorts of tyre problems. It's best to understand it is a compromise with the 911, hence my suggestion to set up your car as above and to do it when the tank is full.
Click to expand...

thanks, had no idea to expect that much movement on fuel and settle. will stick with chris's initial suggestion of rs+10mm and see what happens.

4k extra on wheel carriers and calipers for an additional 20mm of drop without bumpsteer is not that high up in the budget for sorting her out!
 
A full tank of fuel is 50+kg, add in some luggage and you can be looking at 80kg over the front wheels. When the tank is low have someone sit on the front when the hood is open and you can see the effect on the ride height. Once that drop gets below to RS height or lower odd things happen to the toe etc.
Set up at +10mm with a good fuel load the car should drive really well :thumb:
 
If it helps I'm running RS -20mm on standard uprights. No front end issues to speak of. The car is quick around the circuit (snett 2.15) no horror stories under compression but the trick is to hold a trail brake after turn in to keep the nose down - as you would with any 911.

I would also qualify this by adding that my car is running KW clubsprort suspension which I intentionally fitted as the spring rates are relatively high (350 front - 700 rear) and help prevent exessive suspension travel. I am also running 993 turbo front brakes and 993 C2 rears. The increase in forward bias also helps to keep the nose down under braking

If you are looking to track your car, this set up will work for you without the need of changing your uprights. The standard brakes should still work but i'd change your front pad material for something a little grippier like a pagid yellow. A softer a softer spring/damper set up you will allow much more suspension travel and the outcome may well promote a bumpsteer issue
 
Thanks steve, how do you find the clubsports on the road - easy to dial in so the ride isn't unsettled over a bumpy A or B road?
 
They come already set up with a decent balance. They are a track biased damper so they are firm by road standards but they share the same internals and valving as the much more expensive race version. This means that high and low speed damping control is surprisingly good. On saying that, it depends on your expectations. I am very happy with the compromise.
 
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