Official Battery

[GD]

Hi,

My official battery is only two years old and has given up. Just won't hold any charge and my charger indicates that the battery is faulty.

So, now the tricky part of replacing the battery!

I have my official battery replacement ready to go (£200!!!!) and I've got enough power to pop the bonnet, but the power's low as the alarm occasionally goes off (ie. the voltage has dropped below a certain level).

Reading the instructions pasted below, the suggestion is leave the key in position 1 (because of the extreme loud alarm)......and as I'm replacing the battery in the garage the noise will be even worse!!

However, the manual clearly "switch off engine and all electrical loads".

The manual also says removing negative first and then when installing the battery connect positive first (danger of short circuit).

GT4 wrote:

To change the battery:

Put the key in the ignition and turn to "1".

That way you won't be deafened by the alarm module (cunningly placed by the battery, under the front bonnet which is also perfectly designed to channel all that siren goodness to your ear drums).

Disconnect negative first.

Swap batteries

Reconnect negative last.

Don't forget to reconnect the acid vapour overflow pipe.

If you aren't under warranty to OPC, get yourself a nice big capacity battery for a decent spark, cranking ability and general ability to last longer without use.

Get a Bosch or Varta (it is a rebadged Bosch, but should be cheaper, obviously check Bosch deals too)

315*175*175 mm
85 Ah and 800 CCA
FIVE year warrany

Varta Silver 585 200 080 (short code F18) - circa £90
=
Bosch Silver 0092 S5 010 (short code S5 010)




Next time it goes, I'll get the Bosch Silver as my car will be out of OPC warranty.

 

[NXI20]

Stuff...

Follow GT4's advice & you'll be fine.

 

[westy666]

I followed GT4's advice when I swapped my battery just before xmass and had no issues.

 

[GD]

OK, thanks. I just need to point out that GT4 did indeed suggest reconnecting positive terminal first.

So it's just the position 1 question. I'll give it a go, cheers.

 

[GT4]

Only two cables so:

Disconnect negative first.

Swap batteries

Reconnect negative last.

=

Disconnect positive last.

Swap batteries

Reconnect positive first.

And any permutation thereof.


PS - the manual is written to stop idiots (Americans) disconnecting the battery whilst the engine is running, which will (unsurprisingly to non-Americans) result in damage to the electronics if nothing else.

I'm surprised they don't stipulate the car should be stationary whilst attempting the swap either :?

 

[GD]

Yes GT4, I realised that I mis-read your original post.

Just switched it over and apart from:

a. the official battery having the draining hose on the wrong side of the battery and

b. the restraining bolt on the battery side being difficult to get into and twist off

All is fine.

For a) I simply pulled out the one from the old battery and put into the new one. However, I've got to watch I don't spill acid out from it.

There's a small hole on the + side of the terminal (where the drainage pipe on the wrong side of the battery is). The previous was left like that, so I assume that is normal.

Cheers.

 

[Moonshine]

I just changed mine for a Bosche one from Eurocar parts, £55 with my discount, if you haven't got a Porsche warranty to worry about that's the way I would go.

 

[GT4]

There will be a pressure release hole on both sides, it's just one or both will be plugged in transit.

You will need to ensure only the side with the overflow pipe is open (ie insert plug in the opposite side, otherwise acid may leak onto your battery tray and corrode it or worse find its way into the car or more sensitive areas).

 

[GD]

Thank you, that's most helpful. I didn't put the plug back in the opposite side (ie near the positive terminal), because the previous one didn't have one either.

So it looks like it either fell out, or wasn't installed properly by Porsche breakdown assistance (when the battery was placed a couple of years ago).

Fortunately it hasn't done any damage, but will put the plug in tomorrow (ie. the opposite side to the overflow pipe).

 

[Sarfend]

Saw this on Ebay. Looks correct for me (although it states convertible) but the spec is wrong compared to the one GT4 has submitted.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PORSCHE-9...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b557afd1

So does the convertible have the same battery as the coupe (I almost wish I wasnt asking that although the convertible has to lift the hood so it might need to be a heavier duty one) and is the spec correct for a Turbo S?

Also seems either to cheap or very good value for a Bosch.

Any help appreciated as always.

 

[GT4]

It will work, it just won't have the staying power over long inactivity periods, loads when the engine is off (ie leaving lights on or radio etc) with 74 vs 85Ah and it may not have the oomph to turn the engine (crank) in cold weather.

Cold Cranking Amps of 680 vs 800 (although both are a far cry from the disgracefully poor CCA of the Mà¶ll Kamina).

Ideally, you should always open and close the hood with the engine running if you have any mechanical sympathy.

My advice is to get the biggest and best battery you can.

And those are the specs I stated.

Battery prices will be based on capacity/size and warranty/quality (3,4,5 etc years) and of course the brand and/or specific technologies.


PS - there are no specific batteries for convertibles vs coupes etc.

Higher specs are advised for Tiptronics, though.

However, from Boxster to 997 Turbo etc, larger engines and higher continous load equipment levels (ie poverty spec Boxster or even GT3 - although that is also for weight saving - vs all singing all dancing nav, heated seats etc 997 Turbo) get uprated battery spec too. Porsche only have three OEM battery capacities from 2.5 986 to 3.8 997 Turbo.

 

[Sarfend]

Thanks as always GT4. :thumb: