Help from those with tuning experience ABS/PSM light

[911tom]

Thanks Ken. Really appreciate the advice. :thumbs: Do you think my excessive IDC is 100% map related or is it potentially to do with me upgrading intercoolers, pipework, plenum and throttle body?

 

[NineExcellence]

Thanks Ken. Really appreciate the advice. :thumbs: Do you think my excessive IDC is 100% map related or is it potentially to do with me upgrading intercoolers, pipework, plenum and throttle body?

Tom,

- general comment for everyone on this thread - injectors cannot be open more than 100%
- when it is 'requesting' more than this e.g. 120% is means it is out of injector - you need more.

The problem is the tune - the set point is stupid rich - absolutely no need to be trying to run 0.73 mid range - firstly excessive rich can be just as bad for an engine as excessive lean. Then at the top, it is starting to run lean despite the fact it is requesting it to be rich.

If you have logged ignition angle I would bet you can see it knocking.

If you have fitted a larger TB/IPD then you need to tune specifically for this - partial throttles and short terms will be all over the place. The DME without tuning for it, will adapt, but the adaption will be poor.

Back to IDC, ideally it should always be in the range of 80-90%. You can run up to 100% (a lot of modern cars do these days) if the tuning is good. Equally running too low is not good either.

If you have a log of the car before you did the work, you should be able to compare.

The difference between set point boost and actual where actual > set point can be many things - some of the hybrids we have spool so damn quick that we have to up the limits to close to max to keep the actual from exceeding set point.

Anyway, your priority is to get the IDC back into the range of 80-90% and get the car on boost as close to 0.80 lamba. Running 0.73 is leaving a hell of a lot of power on the table.

K.

 

[911tom]

Thanks again Ken. This all makes sense and sensibly I need to decide on where I am going with all this. For now I think I will go back a step with the mods in the hope that my IDC's will drop.

 

[ChrisT70]

this is why Ken at 9e would be my man if i was a turbo owner!

 

[wizard993]

Thanks again Ken. This all makes sense and sensibly I need to decide on where I am going with all this. For now I think I will go back a step with the mods in the hope that my IDC's will drop.

What specific exhaust and cats, re 100 or 200 cell ?)are you running and what waste gate actuator pressures are you seeng before the gates open? If/when you changed the exhaust did you replace the oxy sensors or just re-use the old ones?

Has the ecu been modded, (when?) and/by whom?

What are the fuel trim readings at 1700rpm(essential that you get his data)

Are you running Tesco or Shells finest in it?

Std or high capacity fuel pump fitted (normally high capacity required over 570bhp)....along with bigger injectors.

1.2/1.3 peak bar is about right for 600bhp car so your not bleeding boost pressure.

 

[911tom]

this is why Ken at 9e would be my man if i was a turbo owner!

Completely agree. If my circumstances were different and I wasn't hooked on diy I would be selecting 9e30 with fender intakes and getting it booked in

 

[NineExcellence]

Tom

Your set point is not a 1.1 bar map - look at your datalog - you don't specify boost - you specify load which equates to boost.

The most likely reason is now you have no boost leaks (assuming) this is true, that you are getting what the map is giving you. Maybe when it was tuned it was not boost leak free. I see loads of cars where when it was tuned,
They couldn't get the boost up to the right level and therefore raise the target load to pull the boost up. Then subsequently when for example the boost leak is resolved, hey presto the car gives more boost. More boost means you need more injector.

I doubt removing the new parts will make any difference to your IDC - it is not going to change what is in the dme. If you don't want to fix the tune, see if you can lower the cracking pressures sufficiently so that it will bleed the boost and therefore lower your actual, even if the target is higher.

 

[911tom]

Thanks again Ken. This all makes sense and sensibly I need to decide on where I am going with all this. For now I think I will go back a step with the mods in the hope that my IDC's will drop.

What specific exhaust and cats, re 100 or 200 cell ?)are you running and what waste gate actuator pressures are you seeng before the gates open? If/when you changed the exhaust did you replace the oxy sensors or just re-use the old ones?

Has the ecu been modded, (when?) and/by whom?

What are the fuel trim readings at 1700rpm(essential that you get his data)

Are you running Tesco or Shells finest in it?

Std or high capacity fuel pump fitted (normally high capacity required over 570bhp)....along with bigger injectors.

1.2/1.3 peak bar is about right for 600bhp car so your not bleeding boost pressure.

My exhaust is the 9e switchable. 100cel. Reused the old sensors but they are only 2 years old. Both waste gates start to crack around 0.8.

Ecu mapped by Dms two years ago.

Thanks I'll log fuel trims next.

Always shell vpower or bp ultimate.

Standard pump and injectors. Have a feeling this will soon change!

I think Ken has hit the nail as usual in that the maf fault appears around 30% throttle at 3000rpm. Therefore I think it is a tuning issue with the bigger throttle body. I believe the injectors are maxed anyway and me adding more air has made this worse. Really I think I need injectors, pump and a tune!

My only concern is I may have to bring the van to vmax or keep a really close eye on the afr's

 

[911tom]

Tom

Your set point is not a 1.1 bar map - look at your datalog - you don't specify boost - you specify load which equates to boost.

The most likely reason is now you have no boost leaks (assuming) this is true, that you are getting what the map is giving you. Maybe when it was tuned it was not boost leak free. I see loads of cars where when it was tuned,
They couldn't get the boost up to the right level and therefore raise the target load to pull the boost up. Then subsequently when for example the boost leak is resolved, hey presto the car gives more boost. More boost means you need more injector.

I doubt removing the new parts will make any difference to your IDC - it is not going to change what is in the dme. If you don't want to fix the tune, see if you can lower the cracking pressures sufficiently so that it will bleed the boost and therefore lower your actual, even if the target is higher.

Thanks again Ken. This make sense and fits as I never leak tested before it was tuned and nor did anyone else! Basically I need a remap! Obviously makes sense to fit injectors etc at the same time!

 

[wizard993]

Thanks again Ken. This all makes sense and sensibly I need to decide on where I am going with all this. For now I think I will go back a step with the mods in the hope that my IDC's will drop.

What specific exhaust and cats, re 100 or 200 cell ?)are you running and what waste gate actuator pressures are you seeng before the gates open? If/when you changed the exhaust did you replace the oxy sensors or just re-use the old ones?

Has the ecu been modded, (when?) and/by whom?

What are the fuel trim readings at 1700rpm(essential that you get his data)

Are you running Tesco or Shells finest in it?

Std or high capacity fuel pump fitted (normally high capacity required over 570bhp)....along with bigger injectors.

1.2/1.3 peak bar is about right for 600bhp car so your not bleeding boost pressure.

My exhaust is the 9e switchable. 100cel. Reused the old sensors but they are only 2 years old. Both waste gates start to crack around 0.8.

Ecu mapped by Dms two years ago.

Thanks I'll log fuel trims next.

Always shell vpower or bp ultimate.

Standard pump and injectors. Have a feeling this will soon change!

I think Ken has hit the nail as usual in that the maf fault appears around 30% throttle at 3000rpm. Therefore I think it is a tuning issue with the bigger throttle body. I believe the injectors are maxed anyway and me adding more air has made this worse. Really I think I need injectors, pump and a tune!

My only concern is I may have to bring the van to vmax or keep a really close eye on the afr's

Your injectors will be working fine at 3k rpm - it's only when you start pushing them above that they can struggle

Was the remap done after All the mods or did you add more mods after the remap?

Get a hold of those fuel trim figures(engine hot) as they can be a tell-tale in terms of mixture, how the maf is behaving and also the air/fuel delivery into each cyl. An oxy sensor that's just 2 years old can still be problematic!

I suggest to change to 1bar actuators as your running more than 520bhp.....but not until you get the thing stable

 

[ChrisT70]

I can see why people tweak these cars though, bloody fast for the money spent. An absolute bargain compared to some other Supercars!
Imrans on 1.3bar was astonishing in the midrange but it only takes a few seconds to melt a piston in lean running so safety first with a proper tune up!

 

[911tom]

Intercoolers, throttle body and plenum were fitted after the car was tuned. I think importantly though whilst fitting these parts I found and corrected some big air leaks. As Ken suggests these were most likely there when the car was tuned and the tuner just increased the base numbers until the desired actuals were achieved. Now that the leeks are fixed the numbers are all over the place. I really do not want to cause any damage so will hold off until I can get a tuner involved.

I'll update as soon as I know more. Thank you all for your help.