996 RMS Seal - what other works should I do...

[toddy2]

Hi All,

I'm looking to get a few bits sorted on the 996 4S. There is a leak on the front diff which does need sorting. I also have a leak from the RMS/IMS so will get this done and will inspect the IMS, my intention is if ok to leave and remove the outer case.

Question is with the gearbox dropped should there be any other preventative stuff I should consider? Clutch was 20k miles ago just before I had it. I'll look to replace the brake pipes.

Anything else I should consider please....?

Does anyone know what sort of cost I'm looking at for the above works, I'm allowing £2k. Is that enough or a bit more?

It seems never ending, I'm also going to sort a small amount of rust on the rear arches, replace the cracked side skirt and sort the sagging roof liner.

 

[Ghianightmare]

I changed my front gearbox Mount when my box was out. If it's more than 7 years old, the rubber will be getting hard. I used the OEM one. Easy to do with the box out.

Consider cleaning the underbody and giving it a coating of anti corrosion wax.

When was the gear box oil changed? Life is 8- 10 years I think.

 

[toddy2]

I changed my front gearbox Mount when my box was out. If it's more than 7 years old, the rubber will be getting hard. I used the OEM one. Easy to do with the box out.

Consider cleaning the underbody and giving it a coating of anti corrosion wax.

When was the gear box oil changed? Life is 8- 10 years I think.

Good points, thank you. I'll add to the list...

 

[berni29]

Hi

If the IMS is ok, then consider removing the outer seal. Do they have to drop the gearbox and engine as a unit on your car or is it an early one where just the box can come out (from memory).

Best of luck

Berni

 

[Alex]

Check your brake lines over the box.

 

[ian_alex]

Is it worth changing the AOS when the box is out? I assume it is feasible when the box isn't there.
Can you tell if it is OK by inspection only?

 

[toddy2]

Great, thanks for the suggestions. I'll definitely do the brake lines.

 

[martin t]

I thought i replied to this thread but my post has vanished so a bit late to the party.

AOS a definite as they are cheap to buy on autodoc plus with the box out of the way it is easier to change.

With the clutch and flywheel off change the pilot bearing in the flywheel, a very cheap precaution.

Also change the clutch release bearing as this is the part that causes the most annoyance as they tent to creak and whine over time and the actual clutch assembly is fine. About £35-40 on ebay or cheaper on autodoc.

If you are going for a full clear out you could flush the cooling system, and maybe change the water pump £70 ish and the thermostat £30 ish.

i did all this during an engine swap, and it made good sense as all the difficult to get at parts were changed.

One final idea is to remove the starter motor, clean all the contacts and re grease the rear bearing. There is a removable cap and you will find rock hard/solid grease which means the motor is not being lubricated.

I did that as well.

 

[gizlaroc]

I would replace the detent pin and spring on the gearbox, around £5 from Porsche and makes a hell of a difference to how tight your gear shift feels.

Virtually impossible to do unless gearbox is dropped.

Edit: http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=1642381

 

[toddy2]

Thanks all, I look forward to getting it back on the road.