911uk.com

Engine Differences?

Mikeoupe — Fri May 09, 2008 8:21 pm

Author: Mikeoupe

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 8:21 pm

There was thread running on PH recently in which replacement engine prices were discussed, as a 3.4 owner I was interested to see two 3.4 options available with quite a significant difference in cost;

3.4 litre
1997 - 1999 , £8250 + vat (£9694)
2000 - 2001 fly by wire throttle engine , £6420 +vat (£7543)

I appreciate that the 2000-2001 engine uses the fly by wire throttle but does anyone know what (if any) the other differences are? I remember reading an article from AutoFarm in which it mentioned that Porsche were constantly evolving the M96 engine. Obviously when the engine evolved into a 3.6 in the facelift it's known to have had some elements (such the intermediate shaft) strengthened, I suppose I'm wondering if the 3.4 underwent any similar changes midway through its life.
Interestingly for those that didn't see the PH thread the newer the engine the cheaper it is

Cheers

I am very happy!

Big Bob — Fri May 09, 2008 8:21 pm

Author: Big Bob

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 8:21 pm

Damian wrote:

.....which one? And what were the results?

This time it was my ML420CDI. Its now running 360BHP and 840NM Torque.
It now has the pullaway grunt the old F150 Pick Up Truck had with the uprated 5.4 Litre Supercharged Engine. The ML replaced this bit of exotica, in order we had a vehicle that George the Great Dane could travel in .
Next week the SL500 is getting the works .
Regards Big Bob

996 C4S question?

Mikeoupe — Fri May 09, 2008 8:01 pm

Author: Mikeoupe

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 8:01 pm

Assuming it's a brand spanking new unit from Porsche? then definitely yes, it wouldn't put me off one bit, some would see it as a real positive.

Snetterton 8th May !!! Novice Day

Surinder Randhawa — Fri May 09, 2008 7:44 pm

Author: Surinder Randhawa

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:44 pm

hi, yes I remember seeing your 996 TT behind me several times but you always got me on the straights but with over a 100hp defict thats understandable.. the TT is a very quick car and with the 4wd / psm you can safley hammer it. Same for my m8 in his 997. Although I was surprised how quick the 993 c2s is for a 12 year old car with only 285hp.. ..and no driver aids it behaved very well throughout the day..

Brilliant if you have a vid.. I had my digi cam strapped to my sunvisor but luckily the footage is really quite good...

Any chance I can see the footage ?

L998 Paint Code - What Colour is this?

911UK — Fri May 09, 2008 7:39 pm

Author: 911UK

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:39 pm

looks like Rivera Blue

RE: Cleaning Cloth / Mitt?

Seagull — Fri May 09, 2008 7:35 pm

Author: Seagull

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:35 pm

jonathanwalters wrote:

One questions - the instructions say if you've used Zymol on your car only to use the Zymol sponge and Zymol leathers, otherwise risk losing the protection!! Not sure whether that's just them cross selling, but presume a wool mit wouldn't hurt the Zymol coating?

Thanks

They would say that - they make OPCs look like Mother Theresa.

What's This?

Mikeoupe — Fri May 09, 2008 7:31 pm

Author: Mikeoupe

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:31 pm

Brilliant, I can relax now, ahhhhhhh.
One of the reasons for my curiosity is that my 3.4 has one, whilst (I think) every 3.4 engine bay shot I'd seen didn't have one, whereas every 3.6 did.

Thanks everyone

Air con condensor - DIY?

Michael Taverner — Fri May 09, 2008 6:52 pm

Author: Michael Taverner

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:52 pm

I think it would be quite easy to change the condenser although you might have to remove the front pu to get at all the securing nuts. I recall I could not reach the lower left securing nut, without without taking off the pu.

Once the condenser is off you can remove the complete fan assembly.

I did this to change the fan sensor which sits on the top of the condenser and controls the switching for the high/low speed for the fan.

Of course you will need to go to a A/C man to evacuate all the gas before hand, assuming there is some left, and to have the system recharged.

Don't forget to change the dryer, located in the rear of the wheel arch. Should be changed if the system has been opened to the air, also best to get the chap who charges the system fit the dryer as it should be left open to the air for as short a time as possible.

Michael

Drivers seat electrics stopped working!! + other problems!!

GD — Fri May 09, 2008 6:41 pm

Author: GD

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:41 pm

Hi,

Hmm, not having the best of times with my car at the moment...this is the list!!!!

1) PSM comes on very, very occasionally (ie. 4 times in last 6months) oddly enough in the exact same place, which is when I turn left from one steep hill down onto another particularly steep hill (at about 5mph).

It says PSM failure, ABS failure.

It clears itself after I turn the engine off/on and there's no codes in the computer.

OPC recommend driving it to them before I turn the ignition off, so they can get the code (the PSM system seems to reset when I turn the engine off/on and clears the fault in the OBC...seems odd to me though)

Definitely not cracked coil or muf etc.

2) Rattly exhaust on the near side.

Haven't asked Porsche to look at this yet, because it's not that bad and always done it since new....but it's starting to annoy me know.

I'm wondering whether it's possible just to replace the near side can (rather than forking out for a PSE...which I'll do at a later stage)....anyone know if a) this can be done and b) is a sensible thing to do?

3) Very slight rattly/crashing noise from the front end when I go over a bump. More pronounced going up a hill and when the car is warm.

Suspecting bushes....? Only done it recently (in the last week) and I don't think it's a stone (but might be I guess).

4) Drivers seat stopped working! Replaced the fuse, all was fine for about 3 months and now it's blown again.

I suspect out of 1), 2), 3) and 4) the only thing that has got a hope of being covered under warranty are items 1) and 4).

Any thoughts?

Ring Trip 08 # Meeting Point, 10 May @ 11am + UPDATES

ResB — Fri May 09, 2008 6:29 pm

Author: ResB

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:29 pm

Remember the golden rule...

"Never, leave your Wingman"....

Alloy Wheels (18") - Urgent!

GD — Fri May 09, 2008 6:26 pm

Author: GD

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:26 pm

Quote:

I can see 2 potential issues:
1) The Turbo II ones are 8" fronts. Will the extra 0.5" be a problem with rubbing the arch? Any other issues?
2) The Turbo Black ones are 8.5" fronts (an extra 1") and also have a 52 offset at the front (reading Adrien's chart thing I think I am currently 50). Will this rub the arch, do I need a spacer or new bolts?

1) Yes, I believe you can fit 8" fronts to the front of pre-facelift cars..fairly sure about that.

2) I don't really know and I'd be guessing, but I suspect they will be really close to the arch (although the offset might help...although I can never remember which way round the number goes), so probably worth phoning and getting design911 to confirm. I suspect they will fit personally.

Is an RS America a poor mans RS or as good as the real deal

pirellipete — Fri May 09, 2008 6:16 pm

Author: pirellipete

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:16 pm

I had hoped it was an 'RS' like what we have over here.

Yea, its still a lot of car for the money, but I can't justify it as my 'second' porsche, (Pretentious, moi)?? even what would obviously be a fantastic trackday car, but would've sold the wife's soul for a real one at that price.

Thanks for the spec info, this site always amazes me, and never lets you down,

cheers

RS hard rubber motor mount install

Stuart — Fri May 09, 2008 6:09 pm

Author: Stuart

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:09 pm

Installed the RS motor mounts today, replacing the stock mounts (993 part number ) with RS hard rubber mounts. The hard rubber motor mounts reduce the flex of the drivetrain and provide firmer feedback from the engine and transmission. They have less rubber than stock but still enough to reduce most of the noise and the vibration.

I followed this install from p-car http://p-car.com/diy/motormount/ It's for a 993 but shows you the steps to follow.
A few tips from me are make sure you have a long enough socket extension as the underside nuts are tricky to reach. Also, the socket itself needs to be fairly deep as the bolt screws through the nut quite far. (I got around this by using the wheel nut socket found in the Porsche tool kit ) You will have to remove the airbox and emission pump to gain access to the mounts. The instructions call for 2 people at one stage, one to hold the top nut as you tighten and torque the lower one. I got round this by having long arms and using a spanner on the top nut

Ok, pics.
STOCK MOUNTS

RS MOTOR MOUNTS

Comparing the single piece stock mount with the RS parts (1 side only)

I haven't really had a chance for a proper drive yet but started her up and there is slightly more vibration throughout the cabin but only marginal. Can't wait for a long drive tomorrow

1999 PCM1 Upgrade or replace... your advice, please

alan sweeney — Fri May 09, 2008 5:53 pm

Author: alan sweeney

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 5:53 pm

Hi,

Pioneer AVIC set ups are the bad boys. PCM 1 very dated and now, even PCM 2 has poor functionality compared to after market products.

PCM 3 looks like Porsche have finally woken up to ICE to a point. Many debates on here about this.

Certainly the days of if a vehical has PCM or not is no longer a deal breaker come residuals.

AVIC is my personal choice.

Alan